Do all Coins eventually Tarnish/Tone? Lately Ive been noticing some tarnish/tone on some of my older Sacagawea Proofs(my 2000 and 2002 years). Ive been taking real good care of them. I keep them in capsules and in a controlled enviroment. I don't think it was there when I first bought them about 5 years ago. What can I do to do prevent this?
In a word, yes. All coins will eventually tarnish/tone. The only thing you can do is stem the tide, so to speak. Keep them in an airtite capsules (or something similar) and in a controlled environment. This will slow down the process. Welcome to CT (Cointalk)
Also does anyone know if Sacagawea coins are more susceptible to toning than other coins when properly stored? I know they tarnish VERY quickly when handled due to the type of material they are made of But I don't know about unhandled though. Also, how am I going to enjoy the hobby if I know that every coin I buy will inevitable tone? I'm only 30 and I want to have something cool to show my future grandkids. That won't happen if all my coins are brown blobs.
It's not a given that it will happen in your life time there are many examples of coins that have been essentially stable since they were graded in slabs 20 or so years ago. Environment and where you live plays a large part in it. But the other thing to consider is toning isn't necessarily a bad thing. Some coins end up being very beautiful toned which sell for large premiums compared to their untoned counter parts. Some people love toned coins especially when they have beautiful colors while others prefer their coins to be untoned, that is all a matter of personal preference and there is no right or wrong answer. If you end up with some beautifully toned coins you would not have any problem selling them and using the proceeds to find coins with a look that you like better if toned ones just don't appeal to you.
Perhaps your right. It's just so frustrating that my 16 year old coins are already showing signs of toning and I even took real good care of them too. It's not like I keep them in the garage.
IMO some toning, or tarnish if you prefer, along with some honest wear are the scars of living for a coin. Coins with such "defects" are the Keith Richards of coins. On the other hand, brillant pretty boys in a slabs are like looking at a 20 year old Donny Osmond. :GAG:
I see what you mean. I personally prefer the modern shiny Proof coins but I do think my old indian head penny is really cool. Also, I'm from Utah so don't be dissin Donny.
Eventually ? All coins begin toning the instant they leave the dies, there is no eventually to it. The only thing that is eventual is how soon you notice the toning.
All metals tone and corrode, nothing you can do about it. However, you can greatly slow the rate by minimizing exposure to air. When you say "capsules", what exactly do you mean? What additional layers of protection to you use? Just an example of how I do long-term storage: AirTite brand holder>inside a 2x2>inside plastic page binder>inside a ziplock with desiccant and a sacrificial cent>inside tupperware. MO' LAYERS = MO' BETTA
They react more quickly than most due to the alloy they are made from. They can tone/tarnish even it they are not handled because as they come from the mint they already have, dust, dirt, oils and other things already on the surfaces that may react with the metal even if stored in a fashion that would normally be protective. Sac/President/NA dollars should probably be given an acetone rinse as soon as they are received and then stored in a protective environment. (sealed container with silica gel to keep the humidity low.) to reduce the chances of toning.
Just a thought... You could put an Air-tite capsule into another Air-tite! It may only work for small coins though. For example: a dime in an Air-tite, with a ring the size of the dime Air-tite's diameter, to fit inside an X-type holder with the right black ring insert. I got that idea by actually finding a way to fit a 1985 Libertad into an Air-tite, even though they said it couldn't be done! Or: Vacuum seal it. Put a coin in an Air-tite without shutting it closed. The vacuum seal may actually squeeze the Air-tite shut on its own, so you won't need to close the capsule beforehand. Put it into a 2x2 vacuum seal pouch (start with a longer strip of, say, 2x6 - vacuum that up and heat seal it at 2" and cut it; use the remaining 2x4 for other coins). Put the 2x2 into your archival page (if you use one; or use strips of whatever size you use). Air-tite coins won't turn in the archival pages since they're vacuumed in place. And, I wonder if you can vacuum seal really thick ziplock bags reliably, then that should save on vacuum pouch costs, though you'd need to get a vacuum sealer (they're actually really useful!). Then, no air, right?!
Airtite inside an Airtite? LOLOL I like it! Never use vacuum conditions for coin storage....NEVER. All vacuums will leak air in time, this creates a dynamic environment where fresh air is actually DRAWN in. By creating a vacuum you're saying "please come in fresh air", everything wants to come to an equilibrium with it's environment and it WILL in time. Complete air removal is not nearly as important as creating a STATIC environment, where air essentially is not coming nor going. That way fresh contaminants cannot find their way to the coin surface. Air is not necessarily bad, but continual fresh air is very bad. Temperature also comes into play. As it varies, air pressure and composition vary along with it. Again, this creates a dynamic environment which is bad for coins.
36mm direct fit airtites by Leuchtturm, made in Germany, will work for the 1985 Libertads. They can be found on eBay in boxes of ten for between $6-$7 with shipping. They are thicker to accommodate the round.
All coins will tone at least slightly given time but for some reason some silver coins will only slightly tone and then seemingly stop or at least slow down to almost nothing. In some cases I believe it's the alloy(I.e. the Roman denarii of L. Calpurnius Piso Frugi rarely pick up significant toning, even after being in envelopes for years and years), but I have seen some with corroded or c crystallized surfaces that simply refuse to tone significantly as well.
True, but for only Air-tites, a single X-44 capsule with a single 36mm black ring insert from a different size type (I believe it was an I-type holder) will fit the '85 Libertads... That may be a good idea if you have those Libertads and want to use Air-tites.
I remember during the seventies GSA was selling CC dollar coins in blue GSA holders. Some of the coins looked like they had just been minted. Some CT members told me they had opened old mint bags where most of the coins were tarnished while some other coins in the same bag were pristine. At Whitman shows I've seen Morgans and Peace dollars that are bright and flawless and the dealer claims they haven't been cleaned. Meanwhile other silver objects (non coin)I collect show significant tarnish. Go figure. For me, one of life's great mysteries is why some coins don't tarnish while most others due tarnish. I believe all non treated silver should tarnish.
Coins in the center of the bag have great protection. The outside coins act as "sponges" and absorb in-coming contaminants.
