I was listing a few items on eBay and was going to put this as a weak D but I took a second look and thing it may be a no D. I checked out this site http://www.lincolncentresource.com/1922Ddievarieties.html and believe that its die pair 4. Can anyone confirm that and help with grade/value. Thanks for any help.
First off I am pretty sure it would not qualify as a no "D". I might make a weak "D", but it just does not quite fit die #4 and it is definitely not #1 or #3. The obverse is too strong and the reverse too weak. On the referenced example, the O in ONE is full and the second A in AMERICA is almost gone. Yours is the exact opposite. I guess the best I can say is maybe.
Here some different shots form a different angle with different lighting and a different camera. I'm still fairly confident it's a 22-D.
You have reference on of the best site I know for verification. If all those photos I can see are the same coin this is a Weak D version Probably Die 3
This one of the coins that should be sent to a TPG 1922 Lincolns are hard to GRADE and determine value. Attributes are usually much easier to identify but these photos are really hard for me to use. In this case to you as the owner a TPG Grade and Attribute by far is more valuable than their cost.
I've been thinking about that. The problem is, I think it would get details grade. Is there any way to "fix" it?
If you want to sell this as a no-D, weak D, etc., your best option it having it authenticated from a well respected TPG, detail grade or not.
If you send it to ANACS, it will be a weak "D" at best. The only no "D" according to ANACS is die #2. All the other TPG's allow all dies to be no "D". BTW, I would call it G6, but it would probably get details - corroded.
But with that is it even worth grading? I agree with the G6 VG8 area with details corrosion. In that range I'm seeing $30 or so and it cost $19 to get graded, and it probably won't get the no D because I would sent it to ANACS and I'm pretty sure it's die pair 4.
If you are doing it for sale, probably not unless you can catch an ANACS sale and where you get to avoid shipping costs. If you just want it certified, well, that would be up to you.
Problematic; you'll have difficulty selling it as genuine without the slab, and difficulty getting a profitable price with it.