Your Thoughts on This 1908 IH

So sorry to read this...Doctor, do you have any idea of the number of coins that are ruined forever by "ham-fisted" coin dealers/collectors (who have no clue) on a daily basis? I see them.

One question for you. How many coins have you removed solder from leaving no trace by your method? Never mind. I DIDN'T THINK SO (now, that's abrasive!)

The sound I hear is all the little copper coins running away from the Morgan dollar dealer

PS I enjoy your posts more than you know! You have me rolling in my chair - I love it!

 

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Sorry guys I had to step away, I'm back. I didn't mean to start a federal case over this "G-4" coin. I just didn't want to make it into a AG-3 coin with my own hands. I have never seen anything like this in a different color. I didn't know if it was some type of lamination. I do however, appreciate all the feedback.....negative or positive. I don't have the expertise most of you guys have. It's up to me to pick through the facts and "sometimes" the sarcasm I see here. For me, it's sometimes hard to tell the difference.

Anyway, here are the pics. The toothpick method won! It popped right off. However, I was ready to use some type of heat on it. Here's the reverse as well. A few of you mentioned conservation. How do I treat or remove the green corrosion and preserve the coin? Thanks.

 

Never had to remove solder from a coin. I've removed it without a trace from a lot of other stuff, though, including metal; it's not difficult. All you need is one of these:

 

Good job! Just as I thought the reverse is easily FINE (my x-ray eyes). Next time use a sharper toothpick as there is less chance of scratching the coin. Unfortunately, there is some corrosion on the reverse on the "T" and ribbon end. The coin is not worth sending in for professional conservation.

Now, Posters here will give you all kinds of info to remove the green. Since you cannot ruin this piece, I have a suggestion. Use one method on the obverse and one on the reverse.

If it were my "little treasure" and NOT WORTH just a "buck," I would conserve it in steps:

1. Coin Care (I have been playing with another product everyone swears by on CT and so far it is not proving useful - more experiments with it to follow)

2. Remove the care with acetone. Much of the green should be gone; however, the green color inside the "hole" in the "T" is ACTIVE CORROSION. There are ways to diminish this but I have signed a confidentiality agreement about proprietary chemicals and methods that we use to remove it.

3. You can do steps one and two again. I have the luxury of doing conservation using a stereo scope. While the coin is soaking in Care, I make a chisel-shaped toothpick and carefully scrape away the softest green crud. Work slowly as if the coin was worth $50,000. Post a new photo and the members can offer more info. Conservation is fun

 

Have one, use it for my car models! Why don't you put a very tiny drop of solder on a pre 1982 Lincoln and remove it. I promise not to comment. It would be very educational for us all.

Warning: If you asked me to try that I would take 2 1958 Lincoln cents and put several identical marks on them that we all could see. Then I would put a huge chunk of solder on one coin (the before) an post a photo of the second coin (as the after)! I'm a real joker! I once put a dead praying mantis in a red box of coins to watch collectors jump when they opened the box.

 

Thanks for your detailed feedback. Is this the stuff?

 

Sorry for the big picture, my bad!

 

Markus1959 - Find another means of expressing your emotions. You may NOT use the name of Jesus Christ name in such a casual way. Your smarter than this. Jack

 

TJ1952 - A product like Verdi-Care will stop the verdigris, and protect the coins surface from any further damage. Just Google the product name. From personal experience, it is, hands-down, the best coin conservation product available (IMO). Jack

 

Despite all the she said/she said, this was very informative.

 

Thanks! This must be it:

 

TJ - Follow this thread: http://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/products/verdi-care.html.

You can order it from Wizard. A small bottle lasts a really long time. It only takes a couple of drops per coin. Jack

 

Yes, this is the website I got the picture from. Thanks very much Jack!

 

Yes.

 

Coin Care's main ingredients are white oil, aliphatic distillates, and Limonene which is a chemical solvent and degreaser.
http://www.translinesupply.com/PDF/MDSSHEETS/CoinCare7532.MSDS.pdf

 

And properly used (often in combination w/other things) it does a terrific job. Need to get rid of the residue for best results.

We are still playing with "the other" product to see how useful it is.

 

Just ran some more experiments w/that famous product

Just ran more experiments. IMO, this stuff is not good enough for my needs. Tried to remove "the usual" crud (see OP) from 2 foreign coins with less than satisfactory results. After using the product until no more "green" came off and removing it w/acetone, an application of Care followed by acetone again left me with a pale green Q-tip. The Care removed gunk that the VC did not touch. Using hot MS-70 in the ultrasonic next, all the grime was striped away from one coin. I "dressed" that coin to bring it back to normal. I have the other coin sitting with a large drop of VC on its reverse to see if it will remove anything the Care left before I give up and use MS-70 on that one. I will continue to experiment with VC using the directions provided and then some other "tricks" with it. However, so far, (in my experience) VC may be an excellent surface protectant but it is not useful for our conservation needs. My bottle will last on the shelf for a very long time.

 

Hey Markus,

Just wrote to a solder sucker company to see if they could recommend how to remove the silver "solder residue wash" left on a copper coin.

 

Just tried VC on three colonials... Virtually no effect. I'm done w/the stuff to remove crud that comes off quickly w/other chemicals. I'll possibly use it as a preservative "dressing."

 

Thanks, I've seen this before.

Note: IMO, a "typical" Material Safety Sheet. This form of government requirement can make DISTILLED WATER appear to be a dangerous chemical!

There are several "orange" based industrial solvents that you guys may wish to experiment with.