I want a standing Liberty quarter graded as an MS62 or higher with a full head. What should I expect to pay for one? The year is irrelevant, I just want a nice SLQ, even though a 1917 type 1 would be nice but probably out of my price range. My budget is ~$300. What can I get for that price? Where would I get a better deal than ebay? I want to buy from a reputable company so I don't have to worry about getting ripped off. Also, how much would it cost to insure it via the USPS/UPS/Fed Ex? This will be by far the most expensive coin I have ever bought and I want to make sure I get a nice one. I love the SLQ and I want one with a good strike so I can see all the intricate details. I'd like to run these questions by the experts so I don't just buy the cheapest MS63 from ebay.
@spenser might want to edit your post and read the forum rules specifically #3, A 3 – Self Promotion – self promotion is not permitted on Coin Talk. * See exceptions A - Offers to buy, sell or trade by individuals and/or dealers are not permitted in any way, shape or form in threads and/or posts. If you wish to make such an offer, contact the other party by Private Message or email.
You should be able to find something nice for $300. Keep in mind that all FH coins are not equal. A non FH coin may show more detail on other areas of the coin. Take your time and pick one you really like. I like these with nice luster. Pretty coins.
Just to clarify, I posted this to get advice about purchasing a coin, not as a "want to buy" post. I already posted in the want list forum.
Sorry. I would like to make a point if I may. You have to understand that the SLQ is a VERY busy coin. Finding a needle sharp strike is almost impossible. Even the best of strikes will have weak spots. The beads and lines on the shield are almost always weak except for TY ones that are much stronger strikes than the rest of the series. I've seen PCGS graded coins at MS65 FH with a few rivets missing entirely.
Basically all of the special designations are meaningless when it comes to whether or not a coin is actually well struck. If you want a well struck coin, then buy a well struck coin and don't even worry about the special designations. Ignore the plastic, ignore what it says on the plastic, pay attention to the coin that is inside the plastic.
I agree with GDJMSP Look for the strongest strike and luster you can find and ignore the grade on the plastic. When you go to sell, nobody pay's attention to the numbers anyway.
The @ symbol means 'at' my post was entirely directed at the member spenser, not you Op as they were the one making an offer to sell. Also agree with @spenser that you will find MS FH coins that have missing or mushy looking details elsewhere especially with this series. Here's an example of a coin on Ebay graded MS63 FH, note on the obverse that there's weakness on the topmost rivets of the shield and the walls to her side have weak mushy details as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-STANDI...804420?hash=item463be88344:g:AsMAAOSwstxVb1CT
There's almost no difference in price between a 1917 Ty. 1 in 63 and 63FH, since that issue is typically very well struck. The FH designation will be easier to sell later because of this, but whichever you buy, make sure the coin is fully struck and properly graded. PCGS has a very useful, and free, auction archive where you can look up specific coins by grade. Here are the results for 1917 Ty. 1 MS63FH. Take a look at each of the coins the auction links point to.
