If you'll pardon the pun (or even if you won't)... They made a big splash about the waterproof holders when they announced them but since then it seems like they sunk to the bottom of the fish bowl without a trace.
Yeah, yeah, we all have a story to illustrate a point of view - there are exceptions to everything. James Halperin did the same thing to a Bust dollar long ago. Unfortunately, stories from several years ago don't hold water because the TPGS have become more sensitive to alterations - good or bad - that raise or lower eye appeal. Toning (oxidation) happens in degrees shown by color. When the color of natural oxidation is black - the surface is gone - etched period. I have never seen an exception. I feel qualified to say this because one of my nicknames at a particular organization was "Dipper." The coin above may have looked OK. Perhaps the formerly toned surface was "worked on" by professionals after the toning was removed but I'll guarantee that under a microscope the surface showed evidence of etching or its possible restoration to improve the look. Unfortunately, most don't examine coins closely or are ignorant of characteristics found on an etched coin's surface. Besides, in spite of the oxidation removal the TPGS determined the coin was market acceptable as an MS-66. As you have written before in many posts, that does not mean you would agree with the assigned grade.
That is a silly question. Of course they do. Everybody on this forum knows that and you all write about it! NCS, and ICG conserves coins all the time before they are graded. I believe PCGS and ANACS do also. As far as I know, ICG does not charge for this service but collectors need to check with each TPGS for their policy.
I was just asking because that was the reason you gave for your comment that - in your words - the story doesn't hold water. Then you go on to say you have never seen an exception. The fact of the matter is many coins that are toned black are dipped and then graded and slabbed as MS, and if the surface is gone as you say, they would not be. We shall have to agree to disagree.
I have NEVER seen an exception. If you and I sat together and did the following experiment, think I could change your mind. Here is the experiment for you. Find a silver coin with a dark tarnished edge. Dip it carefully. You may even need to soda any really bad part that did not dip off. Now look at the luster and surface. Perhaps you will now agree that it is etched. True many of these are graded because after proper conservation they are market acceptable. That is the key. There are several groups of guys around the country who decide what gets slabbed and what does not. That has nothing to do with the fact that a coin becomes etched when deep black corrosion is removed. Many collectors/dealers who show me coins cannot even see a scratch so it is no wonder they cannot detect an improperly cleaned specimen or an etched rim. it's up to the TPG to say what goes if a coin is sent in. Otherwise it is up to the collector or buyer to set their limits. Anyway, the insert covers edge problems.
There are different stages of black Mike just like there are different stages of all toning. Yes, once a coin reaches the terminal stage, the luster is gone. But there are many, have been many more, coins that were toned black, that had not reached the terminal stage. It is these coins that I am talking about. Those coins still retain luster under that black toning. Now maybe you've never seen one, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. They do exist, always have. I have seen them many times, plenty of others on this forum have seen them many times too. And just about anyone who really knows coins - has also seen them many times.
Of course there are stages of black but I'm not referring to the soft soot-like crap that wipes off w/MS-70 on a Q-tip. I've conserved many of those. That is not the terminal black that etches the surface.
What does CRH mean. We called a well-known now departed authenticator from the 1960's -1970's Old Cracked Eye because of several false opinions.
Coin-roll-hunting...going through thousands of coins from bank rolls looking for good dates or errors...guaranteed to kill your eyes, even without a microscope. Comment meant in jest, you know us old frats.
I guess I could be called a CH as I examine coins using a stereo microscope. Two eyes, proper lighting , and mostly 7X. Also use a B&L 3X+4X=7X. IMO, best magnifier for a beginner. AFAIK (Is this used one for as far as I know?) B&L no longer makes them but knock-offs are around.
Every coin is going to have a defect or two when looking through a microscope. I buy what I like and use only 10X max.
Ha, ha...every vintage coin is going to have defects with your naked eye too. IMO, a 10X loupe is too powerful for grading. You cannot see the entire coin at the same time. The lens I mentioned allows a grader to see a large modern dollar completely and lets in plenty of light. Many dealers don't even look at a coin with a hand lens.