Relatively new to collecting, my estate sale finds

The 1798/7 looks like VG details- corrosion to me. Probably worth a good $200+

And if I were only in the lot for $10 I would probably get it graded because why not lol

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

You did just fine at $10.00. Even if you picked up a couple of reproduction/replica's, they also have some value to the right person.

 

Knowledge is key to success in this business, so don't expect to buy what you do not know and always have it turn out well for your pocket. If hitting such sales is your plan, invest in learning and don't buy unless you're okay with eating the entire cost as a loss.

As for slabbing old copper, in most cases it's not really as necessary as knowing the Sheldon number, but certainly can depend on the individual coin. Perhaps you should photograph the individual coin and start a new thread asking for attribution help. One of the copper guys will likely do it for you (if not, let me know).

 

Just a follow up: I just took another look, and it's just a gouge. There are no discernible characters or icons of any kind.

 

Thank you kindly for your suggestions. I'm happy to report that when I got back into this hobby a few months ago, one of the first things I did was start reading up on the subject. I've learned a lot, but I know I have a whole lot more to learn moving forward.

I'll take your suggestion on breaking the 1798/7 coin out into a separate thread. Thanks again!

 

The Draped Bust Overdate is a Sheldon 152, which is an R.2. It looks like a solid collectable example that would have a sharpness of a VG. Depending on the extent of the damage/scratches (it doesn't look too bad) it's probably a 100 dollar coin if sold on the ebay.

 

OK Eric, thanks for the update. Love the 'headgear' in the avatar. Maybe I'll just call you Dave (Crockett) the Viking......

 

That's so cool! Thank you for the information.

aubade21, may I ask how you determined this? Is there a specific website, or book that would be a good resource for this level of identification? I looked at numerous websites, but found none that would explain what to look for in such detailed identification.

 

There are a few books good books on the topic, many with detailed descriptions and illustrations, but they are expensive. The cheapest way is to look at the major auctions (Heritage, Goldberg) for pictures of specific varieties. I'm an EAC guy and have studied varieties of early copper for some time, but I still reference my photo library quite a bit.

 

You disproved the idea that it is impossible to have fun with 10 bucks these days.

 

Welcome to the forum, Eric. I have to say I love the hat. I have a similar one (minus the colorful pattern) that I wear when I ride my 1950 Panhead down to the Dairy Queen on Tuesdays to get my 10% discount on "Crazy Hat" night. I've had mine for 45 years.

It took me a little while to make the id since many of the distinguishing details were just not there, but, the token with the gouge is an 1837 Hard Times token, id #HT48. It is rarity R1 (common). Rulau priced that token at $5 in VG back in 2004, but sadly, the condition of yours is well below VG. An interesting token though, and makes one wonder what circumstances it has endured during its existence, and the places it may have been. For $10 though, I would say you did extremely well on that lot.

To expand upon green18's reply about countermarks, sometimes a countermark can add tremendous value. Other times the presence of a countermark could reduce the value tremendously. The most expensive token I have is a lower grade Indian head cent with a merchant's name (SCHILLER) stamped on the front and the letter "X" (for ten) on the reverse, which cost me nearly $2500. But counterstamps are an area where knowledge is a necessity before one should go laying down any serious money.

 

The part above the ear looks like a counterstamp.

 

Great information. Thanks for identifying the HTT. I'm learning so much!

 

Perhaps I'll include a better photo of just the HTT. To my eyes, when handling it, I don't see anything but a gouge. I think the lighting in that photo maybe tricks the eye into seeing a counterstamp. Then again, I might be wrong.