I wasn't a naysayer as much as trying to figure out the reverse die and MM position. I stand corrected on my suspicions--it was an educational thread, thanks.
They did a lot of funky punch jobs on the cc mintmark not just on trades but all cc coins of the 1870s. Spotted a fake 78cc half last year cause the mm was too perfect and centered. Was a genuine 1878 half with a bogus mm
Great thread Bill , I too have bought raw Trade Dollars , as long as one knows the series and can see them in hand or even a decent pic you should be all right . Man I love these Trade Dollars . BTW your coin is hammered , especially the obverse .
Yeah I know! Strike quality in trades and seated Liberty coins means a lot to me I intentionally look for well struck coins
"I called it an au-50 details here's what pcgs said" (and PCGS graded it AU as shown) From the PCGS website: AU-50 Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points So I guess to PCGS the word "friction" on this coin means pot marks, gashes, cuts, slashes, indentations, etc, throughout a portion of the coin, unless I just need new eyeglasses or need to learn more about PCGS grading "standards". Frankly, the coin looks as though it's been slightly thru one of those Tong Wars. Oh well, it's their grading company, I guess they can do whatever they want...and nice to hear that it's genuine.
I have to admit, AU seems a stretch for this one. Pleased to hear it's authentic and the MM location is confirmed, and regardless of grade it would have a welcome home with me. Outside the slab, that is. Free the cartwheels.
Nice coin, Bill, and you stimulated a worthwhile discussion, even getting a real trade dollar expert (crypto79) to post. The only thing that bothered me when I first looked at the photos were the pockmarks on the rims, but everything else seemed consistent with a genuine coin. Glad PCGS thinks so too.
In hand the marks are not at all distracting and barely noticeable Is the super hi res pics I had taken. In hand you'd say au. But the color off so au details. The scratches from cleaning you can see in pics are not at all visible without a loupe thanks @geekpryde for the photos
Yeah I love these things. Next raw one I get I'll do the same with. Tho I don't buy a lot raw cause I mostly see common dates in average condition or problems or fakes. Got my eye on a couple in the gardiner sale tho
This one, I never questioned its genuineness. It was obviously a details coin, and that is the way I voted. I will still repeat my caveat to people who don't know the Trade Dollar series very well. Buy it slabbed--it doesn't cost that much more. The OP knew what he was getting--a genuine details coin, as he knows the series. However, most collectors DO NOT know the series. Hence, I repeat my advice that I have given many times for less experienced collectors on Trade Dollars as the most counterfeited US coin series (with the possible exception of the obvious fake Chinese Morgans, but they are fairly obvious). The ability of China and other countries to produce struck, not cast fakes has gotten very good, so buyer beware.
I am noob to CT but a collector for 55 years since I was 10, now at it enthusiastically again after years of dabbling until my recent retirement. Thank you all for the education I've been receiving. I would love to meet some of you personally, just based on your comments. Would some of you who are interested in a nice, raw 1877-S which appears AU but with lots of counterstamps care to PM me? I am wondering if fakes were around 50 years ago; I bought this from a fellow, private collector about 1965.
Post some images. It has a decent chance of being genuine especially if purchased then. The Chinese counterfeited them of the period hence the chopmarks to test for them being silver. Trade dollars had little demand until more recent years so I'd say it has a very decent chance
For all the experts in this forum please bear with me as I do have one more question to ask about this fine coin. In doing research I saw a picture of a coin, where the arrow head tip ended directly over the "2" in '420 GRAINS'. In the piece the writer said this was when the 'type 2' or 'T-II reverse' began. So I assume there was a 'type 1' and 'type 2' in 1875 ? Is that also the difference in the "CC" and the "S" mints the year they were made ? Here is that picture when you compare it to the picture in this piece where the arrow tip ends after the '2'. Thanks for any information on this, great stuff and I'm still learning.