Post pics of your coin-shooting setup?

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by nuMRmatist, Sep 6, 2015.

  1. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    Now Bob's setup... that's what a real pro looks like.
     
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  3. robec

    robec Junior Member

    The interesting thing about the microscope stand set up is it is actually less costly than a macro lens and good copystand.
     
  4. fretboard

    fretboard Defender of Old Coinage!

    wow.gif You guys got some real nice pic taking stands! Guess I'm still in the laughing stage, meaning if I showed you what I use you would surely laugh. laughhard.gif
     
  5. PatternCollector

    PatternCollector Well-Known Member

    I'd like to emulate a similar setup. I have a couple cameras, where did you get the microscope stand and what specific lens is that. Looks perfect for my coin area
     
  6. green18

    green18 Unknown member Sweet on Commemorative Coins

    I gotta try Bobs vellum trick.........:)
     
  7. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    I was thinking the same.

    So Bob, how and when do you use that? Do you bounce the light off the paper? What kind of coin/surface does this work best for?
     
  8. robec

    robec Junior Member

    The paper is called Canson Opalux Translucent Paper. The size of each sheet is 19"x24". The cost is a bit expensive at just under $3 per sheet, but it lasts a long time. I bought 10 sheets 4 years ago. I gave away half of it and still have 3 unused sheets. It is almost like a cross between paper and plastic.
    http://www.dickblick.com/products/canson-opalux-translucent-paper/

    The direction of the lights change. Sometimes I have the lights shooting across the coin, like shown in my photos. Other times I have the lights going straight down. It depends a lot on the coin. I try multiple angles on every coin and use whatever looks best.

    The deflector/reflector I use behind the lens is taped to a sheet of card stock (for a more rigid deflector) with some aluminum foil in between. For the LED lights I cut out two circle shaped pieces of the paper for each light and tape over the head. Without these for diffusion the lighting would be to harsh

    I use it mostly as fill lighting. White shiny metal may need it a little less than copper, but I always practice with and with out it when ever I change coins. It's just whatever works best for you. Some don't like LED lights for one reason or another. They just work for me. As long as the white balance is set it doesn't really matter.
     
    green18 likes this.
  9. robec

    robec Junior Member

    The genius behind this setup is a member here and the PCGS boards. Not only is he a guru when it comes to putting together setups like this, but also when it comes to coin photography, especially closeup work for RPM's and other die varieties. You should send a PM either here, the PCGS board or both to rmpsrpms.​
     
  10. PatternCollector

    PatternCollector Well-Known Member

    I will thanks
     
  11. benveniste

    benveniste Type Type

    Copystand and lights:
    [​IMG]

    Low-powered Microscope:
    [​IMG]

    Light modifiers include "shower cap" diffusers, and a couple of different sized light tents. I also shoot with either a Nikon SC-21 ringlight (film camera) or a Nikon R1 system with two SB-R200 flash units (as shown in the first shot).

    When using the copystand, my primary camera is a Nikon D800, although I'll also shoot with a Pentax 645n. Most of my coin shots are done with a 105mm f/2.8 VR Micro-Nikkor, but I own 60mm and 180mm macro lenses as well. With the Pentax, I use a 120mm f/4 FA. I'll typically shoot coins at f/8-f/11, and trigger using a wired release.

    On the microscope I use a Nikon V1 mirrorless camera with a 1x relay lens. For lighting I use the LED ring light as show in the shot. There is no aperture control with this system, so exposure depends on magnification. With this setup, I either trigger using a infrared remote or just relay on a 5-second delay setting.
     
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