Thanks I went through the whole coin last night and did not see anything. Abe looks weird and that was the only thing that stuck out. Yeah Ed my husband says I am bad all the time lol. I guess you could say we both are and we like to joke around.
Please do not laugh I am getting ready to work on the 1972 penny. On Wexler they have each variety sectioned. If they say it is in IGWT DATE LIBERTY does the doubling have to happened in all of it or can it just be a few letters or just DATE?
It can be all of it or it can be a part of them. Remember, the famous 1955 Doubled Die? Only the last 5 is doubled on some so it’s called a poor mans DD. And the expensive one has both 5’s doubled but not the 19.
Great I was not sure. I got totally confused and panic in there looking. So far I found two questionable area the R in TRUST and L in LIBERTY. As soon as my dog gets off my lap I will take pictures of that area. Should I open a new thread?
Yes, open a new thread. You are changing the focus of your post for any results you find. Regarding results…any doubling needs to be very precise in matching the Wexler or VV pictures and confirmed with known die markers. Depending on the condition of the specific coin, you may find all, some or none of the die markers, making confirmation of doubling very difficult if none are found. Usually doubling characteristics are prominent with visible die markers. Example: Recently I found a 1982 Philadelphia copper cent that matched all the pictures at Wexler for 006 but the solitary known die marker was not visible on the reverse…imo…Spark
Wow what do you do if you know it is? On some of the old coins it is hard to find some die markers. I will feel better once I see or find a DD.
Well…the coin is a doubled die variety, so I put it in a 2x2 flip and labeled it truthfully and included “die marker not visible” on the reverse where it was supposed to be. If I, or my family ever sell it we will not be deceiving anyone in the process…imo…Spark
A good question. The answer is it depends on the Class of doubling and the severity of the doubling when the die was created or reworked. Read about each classification and that will help you understand what you need to look for. For instance, on early 1960s cents I tend to look for Class 2 DDRs. But with your eye in that area, other class DDRs are noticeable. Understanding how the classes are different will helps you with your searches. Good luck!