No I'm not talking about PF or PL, though they are certainly related. Rather I'm talking about the progression of die states of regular strikes from die wear. For example: Here's an 1836 B-3 relatively Early Die State (MS64). There's a faint die crack in this one but as close to perfect as I could find with a cursory search on Heritage.: And here's the same variety in a Terminal Die State (MS62). You'll notice both extreme die cracks and areas of extremely weak strike due to the buckling of the obverse die.: Here's another example, this one is an 1833 B-1 Early Die State (MS63): And here's the same variety in a Late Die State (MS64). You'll notice extreme die pitting and several areas with clash marks. The terminal die state for this die had stronger pitting than this example in a couple areas, especially the clasp, but this is fairly close.: And yes of course two examples of the same coin, one with flaws and one without can be graded the same. The above coins are attractive uncirculated examples of coins struck at extreme ends in the life of the dies. Personally I prefer the look and character of the terminal die states to the early ones.
This is probably my newbie ignorance talking but if the above examples are priced the same, regardless of grade, my money would be buying the early die state coins.
Just like how some collectors prefer blast white coins and some prefer toners, you would certainly not be alone in preferring perfect/early die state coins. For some varieties where the dies started deteriorating relatively early, examples from perfect die states can be very challenging to find and many collectors seek them out specifically. If I was collecting by date or type I'd want a perfect state coin, but since I collect this series by variety, I prefer the late/terminal die states. Most early die states of different varieties all look very similar to each other but the late die states can be significantly different. Due to this, I find it more rewarding to collect the late/terminal die states because they accentuate the differences between the varieties a lot more than the early die states do. The flaws are also interesting as they serve as a testament to the hard life of the dies and the conditions at the mint during that period.
You just want coins that are unflawed, typically the first or early strikes. Dies will crack up, even if they're early dies. Look at Jaelus' couple of examples and pay attention to the surfaces, that's where the die state shows, that's all you have to do.
I didnt know this until earlier this week, but yes, Wayne Gretzky actually is an avid coin collector. He at least makes the celebrity list for coin collectors (yes that list does exist)
Roger Burdette talks about this in "From Mine To Mint" and you realize that metallurgy and striking technology was so raw back in the early-1800's that ANY coins which survive today are valuable. And back then, they just wanted coins that lasted a long time because the country couldn't afford coins/currency wearing out too quickly. Today you don't produce too many -- if any -- coins with die cracks, as the techniques are so advanced that nearly-flawless coins are produced in mass quantities.
For a very old coin like Cape Bust Quarters, I can certainly see your point. On Saints and newer coins, die cracks indicate genuine coins. But by-and-large, you don't want a coin with the visual look of die cracks, at least among newer, more modern coins. As my other post said, striking and coinage technology was so raw in the 1830's compared to even the late-1800's/early-1900's that any coins, with or without imperfections, are very desirable. And as you indicated, some imperfections can be desirable for authentic or aesthetic reasons.
Equal how ? Equal in all other grading criteria - the things that are used to establish the grade of a coin. I'm not talking value, never even mentioned value, because value has nothing to do with the grade. An '09-S VDB in 65 is worth many thousands of dollars. But a 2007 cent in 65 is worth what, a dollar, if that ? They both have the same grade so rather obviously the value does not determine the grade. Now yes those are extreme examples, but even an '09-S VDB in G6 is worth more, a lot more, than an '07 cent in 65. So again, value does not determine the grade. Nor am I talking about aesthetics, I am talking about things that are physically there or not there on the coin. If a coin has large contact marks in the prime focal area, and it has equal luster, equal hairlines or lack of them, an equal quality of strike, is equally well centered, is struck on a planchet of equal quality, etc etc, as a coin that does not have those large contact marks in the prime focal area, then that coin is graded lower than the other example without them. And this is true every single time. Is it not ? So now, we have 2 coins that are equal in every way, except one has die cracks and the other does not. Those die cracks are there, they are physical, measurable, they are tangible just like contact marks are tangible. And they are flaws just like contact marks are flaws. So how can those 2 coins possibly be graded the same ? You know what the problem is with this ? The answer is obvious, and I think obvious to everybody, but nobody likes the answer.
I've said the same thing, but really what I am learning is that collectors still need to keep their eyes open and continue to be very diligent and critical of each coin, even with the TPG | CAC multi layered approach. The more I actually LOOK at coins, the more I realize this to be true: TPG filter MANY really bad (problem) coins. CAC filters out MANY really overgraded and/or problem coins that make it past TPG. To me that means a large sample pool of TPG + CAC coins are going to be on a whole better quality than a large pool of non-TPG coins, and also better than a large pool of TPG / failed-CAC coins. However, since neither TPG or CAC filters out ALL problems, or ALL over-graded coins, than there still exists a real need to LOOK at each coin yourself or have a dealer do so on your behalf. So buying CAC coins provides a safety net when buying coins based on photos, but it cannot replace a detailed review of the coin, even based on internet photos. I have a few coins that are both TPG + CAC approved and clearly have issues and also overgraded. (Keep in mind, this is coming from me, a CAC-fanboy). I have evolved in my understanding of CAC, and that sticker might protect collectors from a lot, but its certainly cant protect you from everything.
Killer example, I've seen that coin image before. Many collectors, me included, like a good die break, die crack, or other "flaw" in the minting of the coin. I think Doug will admit they can be interesting, and certainly agrees they are collected and desired and even sell for a premium in some cases. His point (I think), is that it is illogical to grade two coins otherwise identical, one with the minting issue, one without, as being the same exact numeric grade.
I find a lot of Doug's posts that way. Of course, the retorts by other respected members here can teach you a lot too. The volleying back and forth is what gets all the good info out there on the battlefield. Oh, books are good too, I discovered that recently. I'm getting me a coin edumacation. So much reading!
I assume you are being sarcastic? @Lehigh96 point was that he is more specific in his GTG threads than most people. He is not looking for what YOU would grade the coin, he is asking what members think the TPG graded the coin. And that, my friend, is a world of difference.
Hmmm, have you actually READ the ANA grading standards book(s)? I have, very recently and several times. You might think the PCGS written standards are loose, or the actual standards used at PCGS and NGC are loose, but I don't think it's very fair or accurate to say the ANA standards are "loose, arbitrary, and ill-defined". I've got the 7th edition in front of me now, and the grade levels are pretty well defined for each series. Yes, they consolidate some of the intermediate grades across all series, and list them in the front of the book. But, if you've got a VF30 standard well defined for a particular series, and an XF40 standard well defined, and your coin exceeds the 30 and does not meet the 40, and the generic 35 description is a match, than yeah, your coin is a 35. I would recommend you buy a copy of the 7th edition. No, I'm not being snarky or snooty. I just bought the book recently myself. I thought the same things you did. And then I read the book.
Don't disagree..but how many people here or from the collecting community are going to be BETTER at spotting bad coins and/or overgradeds (or undergradeds) than a TPG and/or CAC ? 1 in 100 ? 1 in 1000 ? How many people here or in the coin community would say they are as good as a TPG or CAC at grading coins and/or identifying problems and/or counterfeits ??
I'd love to see that list. Maybe I can convince wifey I'm not crazy. Excuse me but I read the standards years before you were even a member, here. Not being snarky or snooty, either, but "eye appeal" is a loose, arbitrary, and ill-defined grading standard, and any breakdown of grades on the basis of same, whether by the ANA, a TPG, you, me, or anybody, is capricious.