I am going to to get my LCS to use the spectrometer on them and then I would send them to ANACS just for authentication since they are cheapest. I don't want to waste more money by sending to PCGS or NGC just to confirm counterfeit. I think ANACS is only $19 for gold.
Yes, I'm quoting myself. Whenever I'm asking myself real/fake type questions I look for things that they could easily mess up on, like the date/mm and legends. My admittedly off the cuff statement about the date being skewed led me to look at genuine examples and the date is skewed on those as well. Just wanted to explain what I meant by that. I'm not suggesting they are real now btw. Basically I'm having a discussion with myself on Cointalk.
So it sounds like if these are fake, they are good fakes. I just bought a scale that can weigh in tenths of grams. As soon as it comes in the mail, I can weigh them.
I wasn't suggesting a TPG because that would cost, but a private individual wouldn't, other than shipping/ins. But a TPG certainly works.
I finally got a scale to weigh coins, and all of them are within the weight tolerances. I guess off to ANACS it is, to authenticate and give me a good idea on grade of the real ones.
this is slightly off topic but why are there so many $3 gold fakes. i'venever owned a counterfeit gold but i have owned a fake peace dollar that was 90% copper and 10% silver
Good question that I don't know the answer to. Maybe because they are worth more compared to their gold value. ..?
$3 a very rare denomination for paper or coins. Date and pictures on front/reverse very popular, too. Ratio of numismatic premium to underlying gold content also high, too.
On the Liberty $20 DE....the date looks 'mushy' but I am not an expert, just that I remember that sign and that might be it. Plus, lots of nicks and cuts in and around "Liberty" -- if the coin was worn, I would expect just high points to show wear and most of the hits. But again, I'm not an expert.