Advice for grading Seated Liberty Dollars at a show

I have been studying, and I will have my handy-dandy ANA Guide with me (looking quite like a newbie).

I'm looking to spend less than $500 on this coin, so going by Greysheet, I'm looking at a VF-or-lower coin. Oh, and it will be the later types with the motto on the reverse (1866-1873).

Are these in a decent order and am I forgetting anything?

Check all of these:

1) High points obverse (head and hair through temple area & top of cheek, breasts, right thigh, knee and just below knee cap)
2) High points reverse (eagle's head, top tips of wings, both sets of talons)
3) Rim for dings & test cuts
4) Fields for signs of cleaning, hairlines, etc.

Oh, and are these counterfeited as much as Trade Dollars or are these safer to buy raw?

 

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you can buy them raw, but if were me spending that amount of money my coin would have to be slabbed by PCGS or NGC. IMO. I look forward to seeing this coin you are going to buy. I really like that seated coins, but could never afford them.

 

Regardless of who many counterfeits of a certain type are out there, if you're not familiar enough with the series to authenticate on the spot with a high degree of certainty, it can only take one for you to be burned.

If you're really that concerned with fakes or problems, perhaps you should just try to track down a nice certified example, but I would caution against making the assumption that a something special, eye-appealing original, and certified coin can readily be had at CDN.

 

Buy a certified coin, just to ensure it hasn't been cleaned and it's genuine. Not sure what's wrong with ANACS though...?

 

FWIW, I've seen many more T$1 fakes than Seated. They're certainly still out there, though.
Your list looks good. Evidence of cleaning would probably be the first thing I would look for, though.

 

And since I'll be at a show, how do I *know* which dealers are solid, well-established, etc.? If they are ANA members, that's a start...

I know the "big" names of course (just from the dealer's list at Baltimore, I see Dick Osburn, Eugene Bruder, David Lawrence, Bozarth, etc.)

 

First of all, ANA dealers commit to lifetime authenticity; and ignorance is no excuse for the dealer. That said, how does the dealer know that you did not switch his raw genuine for your raw fake and then complain? If you are a longtime customer, it is one thing, of course...

With something like this slabbed from an ANA member dealer is the minimum guarantee. Fifty bucks is bad enough. I'd hate to eat five. You want to risk $500. You must get paid well...

 

I *don't* want to "eat $500". That's why I'm asking.

It took me a long time to save that much.

 

You can buy a low mintage no motto for that money too usually vf. Or so look for a nice gunmetal grey original looking coin. Study the surfaces if anything looks the least bit off walk away there is fakes of the seated dollars too and some decent ones the ones I've seen weere 1840s dates. If any doubt buy from a reputable dealer that's a good chance you'll buy a quality coin with no questions

 

I wouldn't rule out an anacs coin especially an old white slab. Could be a good chance to buy a quality coin for a good price. Sometimes they undergrade stuff too

 

Thanks for the advice. It's gotta have the motto, though.

 

Ok not a big deal didn't realize you were just looking for a motto example. That's one I need for my type set too as my example has been re engraved

 

I would recommend the certified route also as many of them have been messed with (cleaned, filed rims) and if you don't know what to look for you can get burned. Not to mention the fakes. I have also noted a tendency towards overgrading these recently by the TPG's so having a handle on what a vf or xf coin should look like is a good idea.

 

Exactly, that's what I meant. I was referring to post #2 "...has to be slabbed by PCGS or NGC". Some of my best coins are in old ANACS slabs.