Morgan die clash, VAM????

thats a really cool article, thanks Chris

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

OK, I went over this thing with a fine-toothed comb. I can find no evidence of die clashes on the reverse, or of letter clashes on the obverse. I found several of the types of markers typically used to ID VAMs. Pictures below. If these don't strike a chord, I'll drop this and quit wasting people's time. That being said, I really appreciate the suggestions. BTW, based on the clash/rotation pictures, I'd mine say is rotated about +1 degree.

The first marker is two parallel die scratches, one from the chin, one from the lip


The second is the initial, suggesting quite a bit of polishing has been done


The third is a bump within the "D-shaped" hair whorl below the ear.


Next is a partial filled G in GOD


A jagged crack in the cap the extends down onto the field


Finally, a divot in the lower left serif on the E in UNITED

 

What camera are you using, your pics are amazing. Is that std. macro mode or some other feature?

 

It's just a cheap hand-held digital held up to the eyepiece of a compound microscope. But keep in mind that you're only the best ones. There are lots that not so good.

 

QB, don't give up just yet! First, it would help if you would post good obverse & reverse photos of the entire coin. Showing us bits and pieces like this isn't helping because most of these aren't markers that will help.

1) What you call "parallel scratches" are not scratches at all. They are leaves from the clash.

2) Evidence of polishing is immaterial at this point.

3) The "D-shaped bump" may help in determining a die state, but first we have to figure out which VAM you have.

4) The die break in the "G" is pretty common, but since it isn't shown in the plate photos on VW, it may only be indicative of a later die state. At this point, it's not relative to determining the VAM.

5) Die cracks are very common on Morgans since it takes 130+ tons of pressure to strike them. Again, post photos of the entire coin.

6) The "divot" is probably a ding if it is recessed.

Finally, I'm trying to understand how you arrived at the idea that this is a VAM-33(A or B). What may be considered "typical" markers for one VAM of a different date/mm may not be typical for this specific coin.

Hang in there!

Chris

 

Chris, I need you to look at a coin for me, please lol

 

Chris, start a side business (checking VAMs) you would make a lot of money with us LOL

 

not a vam, but, internal die break on a 1984 quarter, heres the link http://www.cointalk.com/threads/1984-p-washington-quarter-internal-die-break-reverse.247270/

 

Actually, I am suggesting that because the positions of the clashes differ, my coin is not 33A or B (previous quote below). Also, mine does not have a doubled ear. I was just comparing mine to the only other 1881 O with a strong clash in that area. Sorry if I misled you.

"I compared mine (above) to 1881-O 33B and the clashes, while similar, are not in the same spot. On mine, the ends of the leaves on the clash extend into Liberty's cap. On the 33B the leaves end at the cap. I can't imagine anything other than a second clash causing a marker to be in a different place."

I'll try to get some whole coin pics this evening, but have poor success with full sized pictures

 

As I mentioned before, it is possible that you have an EDS showing the first clash (not the second). On the 33B plate photo, you can see remnants of the "cap vee" on the reverse, and it is positioned slightly higher. This means that the clash of the leaves on the obverse would extend into the area of the cap. Of course, the clash wouldn't show in the recess of the obverse die, just the field.

The other thing you have to keep in mind (if it isn't hard enough already!) is that VAMWorld uses a Wiki-based protocol. This means that ANYBODY can post photos whether they are pertinent or not. I've seen some really bad photos posted over there just because it makes some wannabe feel important. The mods over there try their best to ensure that new photos are pertinent, but sometimes they can slip through the cracks. So, anything that is not part of LVA's descripti0n and plate photos must be taken with a grain of salt.

Chris

 

Chris,
I really appreciate your patience. You asked for some whole coin pics. I don't know how useful these will, but they are the best I do with my camera (it's pretty good through the microscope, but lousy with macro shots).

 

I was hoping they might help, but no such luck. It was worth a shot, anyway.

Thanks!

Chris

 

Thanks for trying.