Something That Has Helped Me: Short Sets

I'm still pretty new to coin collecting, but have learned a lot over this first year. Some of it due to others here on this website, so thank you all!

Aside from not knowing all the things that affect a coins value, one of the biggest issues I had starting out was being unorganized with my collecting. Sure it was nice having all sorts of different types to look at, but that excitement quickly wore off. Soon I started finding myself gravitating towards building sets. Building sets seems to be more challenging - and as a result more rewarding - as opposed to collecting randomly and being all over the place.

Now the other major issue I have to deal with is budget. I just can't afford to build a full set of Peace Dollars or Walking Liberty Halves, let alone Morgans. Especially since I'm building sets with certified coins. That's another thing I learned along the way: try to buy slabbed coins - especially if buying online. It also adds to the challenge (and fun) if you're building a set with the same grade and/or same TPG.

So, what I decided to do is build short sets. My definition of a short set is something that is 15 coins or less. Short sets allow you to build something without draining the bank account. It also gives you the flexibility to get away from it quicker if you decide you rather put your money towards building something else. It's also flexible in that you can expand that set towards a full set if you want in the future.

Below are a few short sets I have decided on. Some of them I have completed and some are still in the works. Some of them I figured out on my own, others I found searching for short sets online. Hope this helps someone starting out (who is also on a tight budget like me).

War Nickels, 1942-1945 (11 coins total)
Silver Kennedy Half Dollars, 1964-1970 (11 coins total)
Indian Head Cents, 1900-1909 (10 coins total)
Buffalo Nickels, 1934-1938 (13 coins total)
Mercury Dimes, 1941-1945 (15 coins total)

 

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I think short sets are a great place to start...especially when on a budget. Another option is a 20th century type set.

 

I just finished a set of proof mercury dimes in old green PCGS holders. With 7 coins in total, they're a really short set. I just love the way mercury dimes look in proof strikes.

 

The best part of Type collecting is that you have the "free range" of choice with each type. So you don't have to buy coins with varieties or at least not buy coins with expensive varieties. This is not always the case with series. Most series have been cataloged to death. And if you don't care for varieties but have pay extra because you like the coin, you might start feeling "hemmed in."

 

To go along with your Kennedy's you can add another short set to it by collecting the silver proofs too. That keeps it silver and you have all of the hard ones when you want to finish the set after that. I think there is one or two 'keys' after acquiring all the silvers.

 

Type collecting Is my main focus lately. I can buy high grade coins for half the price of the traditional key coins. Usually they are double the grade too. For instance a 1909 S VDB, in VF 20 costs about $800-$1000 coin. I can buy common date seated quarters in or near mint state for about $400-$500.

Type collecting also sort of keeps you interested if you don't have big bucks to spend on multiple $1000+ coins in a given set, especially if you are building the bulk of your series in AU/MS and have to then purchase a $1500 VG just to fill that blasted hole.

I do agree that short sets are a viable option for the hybrid collector who likes sets but like you said can't afford to complete some of the better sets.

My short set contribution is proof shield nickels. Generally you can find PF-63s for $350 or so with just a couple pricey ones if I remember correctly. It's a double short set though with about 30 coins. Moderately obtainable though.

 

Around 1997 I started to date collect Seated dimes. I was buying them from a local show. When I got home with #4 I looked at it and yeah, looks just like #3, #2 and #1-PCGS MS61. Okay we're done with this. And yet there are folks who have been collecting Morgans and VAMs for 30 years and seem to be quite happy with it. But I just can't do that.

 

I can't either. I can see collecting a variety of mint marks but having EVERY year and mint mark combination is just a little much for me. One CC looks like any other to me, so I'm gonna look for the best value for the best coin I can afford. Never mind chasing down a sub par coin because they made a few less that year.

But to each his own. Who am I to judge what people collect. I just know what I like.

 

For me, the beauty of short sets is that you don't get bogged down and 'bored' of the same coin type - at least not for long. Remember, by short set I am talking about no more than 15 coins. That's not much really. I would also suggest simultaneously building 2 or 3 sets. That helps keep any monotony to a minimum.

As for "chasing down a sub par coin", that is taking the wrong approach (in my opinion). DO NOT look at the set and determine which common dates are affordable in high quality. Look at the key dates in high grade (or whatever grade you are shooting for) and determine if you can afford those. Then you will never have to "settle" for a sub par coin.

 

Exactly! I've completed the silver proofs myself (which is only 4 coins). I am now looking to complete circulation strikes. That would bring the total set to 15 coins, if you are lumping them all into one set. In my case, I am cataloging them as separate sets since the grading is different. Still you could consider both as subsets of a larger set.

There are also Special Mint Set coins too. That's another short set (only 3 coins).

 

It depends on how you look at it...remember, they started reissuing silver proofs again in 1992...so if you wanted to add those you would be around 27 coins total.

I think your short set is a great ideas are awesome. Another one is 1982 Lincoln cents. With all the changes in MM size and composition...there are 7 circulation types.

 

That is true on silver proofs resuming in 1992. For the sake of keeping it a really short set, I think 1964-1970 makes a good subset cutoff/range. But yes, to work towards a full set you could continue at 1992 and so forth.

Nice suggestion on the 1982 Lincolns. I hadn't thought about it, but it does make for an interesting short set that is all within one type and year! Very cool.

 

Lincoln cents is my absolute main focus, but I do have a little this and that, here and there. I'm not sure what the term is, but I'm thinking about starting a century collection? When you collect one of each coin design for that century?

I saw someone posted a collection in a hard plastic case, something that looked like you would hang on a wall. Any suggestion on where to find a case like that? I've seen albums but I want something I can hang and display.

 

Here's another...the bi-centennial coins. There are more than you might think. For quarters and halves there are 5 total of each: P clad, D clad, S clad proof, S 40% silver BU, and S 40% silver proof. That doesn't include a possible sixth if you include the high speed press 40% BU silver.

For the dollar there are more if you factor in the Type 1 and 2 circulation strikes.

 

Great idea! I might just have to do that! Thanks for the ideas and good luck!

 

If want the best of both worlds, try collecting series that TOTAL just a few coins.

Flying Eagle Cents - 2 coins (three with the two 1858s, four if you include the 1856 pattern)
Two cent pieces business strikes (1864-1873)
SBAs (4 years - 18 coins including the Type II's and wide rim)
Ikes (71 to 78 -I think its only 32 coins even with the bicentennial thick and thin letter varieties)

Alternatively, try one year but all of the varities.
1964 Kennedy Half Dollars (7 coins - 64P - two reverse dies, 64 Proof 3 obv/rev combinations, 64D two different reverses)

Finally, you might try all of the Franklin Type I/Type II pairings (7 coins - 56 Proof, 58, 59, plus the 59 Type I/TypeII Doubled die). Quite doable, but high grade FBL's may make it more challenging.

 

I have a bunch of '76 Bicentennial coins that I got during my early sporadic days. I wasn't building a set when I acquired them, but now that you mention it I might just do that.

 

If you are going to do a set...quarters or something and want the silver coins too. Consider including an example of the high speed press 40% BU silver coins in the set. They are a lesser known variety, but and interesting part of the bicentennial story.

Basically, the mint misinterpreted the law for the 40% BU coins. The law stated they had to mint a certain amount of sets by a certain date...but they thought it said they could mint up to that many. They were going to mint less because that's all they could sell. At the last minute, they realized their error and had to pump out a whole bunch of sets really fast to fulfill the Congressional Bill that authorized the sets. Those are the "high speed press" sets. Typically, the strike quality is poor and the coins look bad.

You can distinguish a regular set from a high speed set based on the original mint packaging of the set. The normal set has a white stripe down the side of the package, the high speed sets do not.

 

If you are going to collect a date set of: "1964 Kennedy Half Dollars With All of the Varieties", I think it would be more then 7 coins. Just using CONECA'S listing with the RPMs would put the count at around 100 coins.

 

Yeah, maybe I wasn't clear. I was talking about intentional obverse and reverse die varieties (ODV and RDV). There are two well-known obverse dies varieties (Best known as the accented hair and non-accented hair varieties) and two lesser known reverse die varieties.

So there are 7 die pairings:
64P (two pairings) ODV-2 with either of the two reverses;
Proof 64 - (three pairings) ODV-1 (accented hair) paired with RDV-1; ODV-2 with either of the two reverses
64D (two pairings) ODV-2 with either of the two reverses.