The $20 is definitely bad. I highlighted the issues here. The other 2 coins would need an in hand inspection to be 100%. I like some things about the $1 but the marks that you highlighted and some others around the rim on the obverse have me concerned.
Good eye! Thanks! So is the fake $20 worth selling for scrap and paying a few hundred more for a legit one? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I am sorry for the OP that the coin is fake, but thank you Matt for that lesson on identifying CFs...
I haven't lost anything with it being fake. I inherited them. They were purchased around 35-40 years ago. I just got them a year ago. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I would recomend holding onto them for a little while. Gold is low right now sell them for scrap when the gold price goes up and get more $$ out of them. Until then display them somewhere in your house. good conversation piece.
OP, whatever you do, do not listen to this advice. The acid will ruin any numismatic value. There are other ways to test this without ruining the coin.
well yeah you do have to scrape some gold off and then test. These coins at least the double eagle is not authentic anyhow so might as well test them for gold.
All type 3 $20 Liberty have a small raised line between the t and y in Liberty (on the headband. This line was on the hub, so it transferred to all the dies. I don't think bogus ones will have this feature.
Don't sell them. 1. They are gold so they have PM value 2. They were your Grandfather's coins so they have sentimental value The memories are worth it unless you need the money.
Here is an excerpt from an article in the NGC archives: "...In the 1970s and 1980s, counterfeit gold coins were very common. It was said that many of the coins originated in Lebanon. How anyone knew this is beyond me, but these coins still show up in coin shops around the country when an estate is brought in for appraisal." and another excerpt [from Coin Talk's conder 101] http://www.cointalk.com/threads/gold-counterfeit-collecting-pre-33.205574/ "...During the 1950's and 1960's there were a LOT of fake US gold coins coming out of the Middle East, especially Lebanon. They coins were typically die struck and were of full weight and fineness, sometimes a little more. Why? Because at the time US citizens could not own gold, but they could own pre-1933 US gold coins. Back in the US genuine pre-1933 us gold was selling for about two and a half to three times the bullion value (With gold at $35 an oz). So these were hot items to sell to tourists (Tourism in the middle east was pretty safe back then. Egypt was a bit dicey with a couple of military coups but for the most part they left Americans alone, it was a strictly internal problem.) The tourist were able to haggle the sellers down and get a great bargain, only double melt for coins that were three times melt back home! And even better deals for scarcer dates! Of course they didn't know they were fake. The counterfeiters got their money by buying gold at melt, striking the fakes and selling them for double melt, so why skimp on the gold and possibly have it detected. After all you are already making nearly 100% over cost. A lot of these counterfeits have been melted down over the years but there are still a lot of them out there. Back when ANACS started something like 80% of all the type II gold dollars and 3 dollar gold pieces they received were fake. it has gotten a lot better but still something like 25% of them are fakes..."
No. Absolutely not, NO. You do not KNOW that these coins are fake. There are other ways to test that are non-damaging. I would be surprised if one single numismatist on this site agreed with you. You could easily bring this to a pawn shop and have them hit it with the element gun. You could put it on one of the mass/dimensions scale balances. You could measure it with calipers and weigh it. DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS PERSON. OP. Until someone can tell you in person why this is fake, do not damage the coin. Please. Trust me.
I think that is a great decision. I am nto selling anything right now. I am buying. As much as I can.
Am I correct that a coin PLATED with real 0.900 gold will not show up in the "acid" test? Somebody tell me.
Get[/quote] Get a copy of "united States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide by Bill Fivaz. It has full-color Analysis. It should answer some or most of your question on any American gold. It tells what to look for, and pictures in detail. Good luck. Take the coins to others, not just to one dealer.
Get[/quote] Get a copy of "united States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide by Bill Fivaz. It has full-color Analysis. It should answer some or most of your question on any American gold. It tells what to look for, and pictures in detail. Good luck. Take the coins to others, not just to one dealer.
I believe that it depends on how thick the plating is, but hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in