After contemplating what direction to take my collecting in after a hiatus, I've decided to go with $1 type, including gold. The hangup I have now is an old debate, whether to buy raw or certified. After looking at population reports, price guides, and taking the sagely advice to "buy the coin, not the holder," I'm thinking I'll go raw for the moderns, but what about the 20th century stuff? I love NGC's holder, but I also want uniformity, and I don't want to she'll out for certified modern issues. What are your thoughts? Sent from my SHV-E300K using Tapatalk 4
You can pick up graded moderns for about the same price as you'd pay for raw coins , and if you're going for 18th & 19th century dollars I'd go slabbed as they're not cheap . Really when you think of it how many modern dollars are there , Ike , SBA , Sac. and a presidential type . Unless you're planning on every president for the 4 coins 5 if you get the 1976 Ike the cost would be minimal .
I want to get an example of every $1 issue, so all the presidential dollar, the different Sacagawea reverses, and most likely $1 commems. Sent from my SHV-E300K using Tapatalk 4
If you plan to go back into the 18th century, I would suggest going all certified. Chinese counterfeits have become quite good and trick some very well informed dealers from time to time. And like was stated before, modern certified coins are so cheap that you wonder why anybody would spend the money to get them graded at all.
I think what I'll do is include the Baseball Hall of Fame dollar. Considering the design, it's reasonable to include it as a type. Two birds, so to speak.
Now there is a thought. A collection of all of the commemorative dollars. Quite a few of them out there. Hmmm, I would build it by starting with the early ones. Panama, Oregon Trail, etc. Regarding counterfeits. There are two types, new and contemporary. Some of the ones made in the 1800s were pretty good too. Wear and tear as those aged helps hide their non-originality. There is at least one group (not in the US) dedicated to detecting and cataloging fake caped bust half dollars made back in the day. I would presume similar groups exist for other coin types. My sincere advise is pick up a digital gram scale. Learn the weights you should see (Redbook shows them) and weigh the coins. Original old coins are usually pretty close to the weight listed. Fakes rarely are. Exceptions exist of course, but the scale is still pretty useful. Probably because of less wear occurring due to hoarding the old 19th century gold coins are often spot on in weight. Silver coins go down in weight as they are handled, but even 100 year old ones are usually within less than 0.04 grams of where they should be when we speak of dollar coins and halves.
If you're going to assemble a set of Presidential and Sacagawea Dollars, I would recommend getting nice, certified examples and be cognizant of color when making your purchases. In about 20 years, a nice, pristine, golden colored set of Golden Dollars may be quite a rare find!
Why on earth would you want ALL of the Presidential Dollars since only 1 would be required for a "Type" Set? The same is true with the Sacagawea and Native American coins.
I'm pretty sure Oregon and Panama were halves. I think the Lafayette was the only classic commemorative dollar. The presidential dollar series isn't like others where the design is static, clearly, so I am on the fence about whether or not to include each president as its own type. Same with the native American coins. I always choose bright, attractive example, so no matter which way I go, they'll look good.
For a dollar type set you don't need a 1794 a 1795 flowing hair is a fraction of the price will still be the most expensive tho for an early dollar date set like I'm hoping to do unfortunately is needed
