In the first two seconds I saw a DDR on FIVE CENTS...should I keep looking? (and I'm guessing it's unattributed?)
Thank you Ben, you have answered my question. I purchased this 1935 PCGS F15 coin that is stated to be a DDR FS-801 (FS-018). (I don't know what the FS-801 or FS-018 represents). I queried the CT experts to reveal what they saw, since I could not seee anything different from a regular Buff. I know, you will all be thinking that I have no business in purchasing coins when I can't tell a DD from atom. But I love all U.S. coins and collect whatever appealing coin that comes my way. Thanks for the confirmation. Dave
Can I just say I'm secretly smiling because I was thinking it was a 1935? In any case, I hope you got a good deal on it, and as long as you're happy, it's no one's place to judge your purchases. I am disappointed it was attributed already, though... But anyway...nice pickup!
Ben and all, According to Coin world I made a pretty good deal on this PCGS Buffalo. Coin World suggested value is $ 150.00 in F-12 condition. I paid $ 64.40 for the coin as it was listed as a Die 1 double die reverse cherry picker. Dave
Those are catalog numbers from the Cherrypickers Guide. I think the first number was the one used in the first three editions, and then they renumbered and the second number is fourth and later editions. Both numbers represent the same coin. The FS stands for Fivas-Stanton, the authors of the Cherrypickers Guide.
I was hoping it was the 1935 DDR and until I opened the thumbnail I had my fingers crossed. Nice DDR. I would figure that it was attributed as I don't think anyone would slab a 1935 that has some wear unless it was the DDR. Nice catch!
I know Ken. It's not the coin. I have a hard time making a good image with the strobe lights mounted on my micro-scope, so I have to tilt the scope to eliminate the flash-back on the coin.
You might try diffusing the LED's with some paper towel or similar material...might cut down on the direct glare...
Thanks for the suggestion Ben. Since the strobe lights are built into the micro, any interferance would not work. I think possibly some type of rubber ring or washer might work. Dave