Throwing a LIKE your way for your answer. For someone who most likely isn't a refrigeration technician (my apologies if you indeed are) you sound like you may have an engineering or fab background. Ill try to get some pics up shortly of something illustrating what such a vessel would look like. Search "cannister style refrigeration liquid line filter drier" or "replaceable core refrigeration filter drier" AWORDCREATED is correct, the vessel is a cylinder of maybe 12" tall and 7" diameter. At the top of it there is a flanged face with 10-12 tappings (3/8" female thread). The face of the flange will either have a recess for either an O-ring or be flat. There will be a cover for the filter housing matching machine thread bolt holes. This assemply comes with either a gasket or o-ring and the cover as well as the bolts. There is generally a 3/8" FPT tapping on the cover where one couldfit a permanant pressure gauge.
Hmmmmm, you're not gonna get much in a container that size so I wonder about the practicality. The general idea though, not gonna dispute that. But just thinking out loud, I'm thinking an old refrigerator would do the job and have plenty of room for coin storage. Even without using the replacement inert gas. But that could certainly be done.
Didn't know they made filters that large. I understand now. I was hung up on trying to make a door for a vessel. I work on small HVAC systems all the time but never anything that would require filters of that size. I guess a person could just cut the end off the filter and weld it to a larger vessel.
Here is an example of a refrigeration filter drier that is made for holding a replaceable dessicant core. Basically the inlet (copper top left) and the outlet (bottom) could be capped off and brazed (NO solder... all joints must be brazed with 15% Ag Sil-Phos Braze Rod, solder is generally 95% tin, 5% antimony, and is not capable of holding a system at pressure or deep vauum).
How do the online dealers store ASE proofs? Do they keep the capsules separate from the boxes until someone buys them? During the last year I have bought proofs from 1991-1998 with box and COA. I put them in my fireproof/waterproof safe with desiccant (changed on a regular basis) in their boxes. I don't know if I am wording my question correctly so as not to incite something here. It seems to me that if online dealers are not separating the coin from the box and they are over 20 years old and still look great, why separate them? Asked with the utmost respect for those that are participating in this topic.
So here's the thing. Coins such as your Proof ASEs, as you know, come individually their own air tite plastic containter which is placed inside the OGP (original govt packaging) and distributed by the Mint. Online distributors and other wholesellers would almost certainly keep the coins in their boxes. Due to the fact that they are selling a large volume and have a fast turnover rate it is highly unlikely that the coins would oxidize. Strictly from the standpoint of efficiency it would be very time consuming for a large seller to open all of the individual proof packages and pull out the coins only to put them right back into the package once an order is received. It sounds like you are taking care of your ASEs perfectly. Keeping a dessicant inside the safe and changing it out as needed is quite sufficient for maintaining a low moisture level. If I may ask, do you keep your safe in a basement or in a room that is climate contolled? I ask you this because it seems to me that many people store their safe in the basement. If you do happen to keep your safe in a basement, I would STRONGLY encourage you to relocate it to a climate controlled room on the first floor. Basements, being below grade, will experience fluctations in Relative Humidity. On the first floor you will find relative humidity to be much more stable. Ultimately you want to keep the safe in an area of your home where you feel comfortable with the temperature and humidity (meaning a place where your body physically feels comfortable with the indoor climate). People will feel comfortable with RH of 50% and 50% RH is perfect for the storage of your coins. In a basement, it is not uncommon to see RH readings of 60%-70% which means the air is holding a tremendous amount of moisture.
That you for your response. Yes, I do keep the safe in a climate controlled room and I have a remote wireless sensor for temp and humidity in the safe. I'm trying to do the best that I can for my babies. (Input smilie here) 99% of my coins are in air-tites and the rest are in 2x2s or in OGP. 100% of my bars are in air-tites. I also use the air-tite plastic storage boxes with the coins and bars inset in the air-tite cards.
The plastic tubs are good to limit the air-flow I think. Make sure that the "closet" is not along an outside wall or attic where the temperature may fluctuate. I put my bulk slabs in stacks of 20-25 coins & wrap them in shrink-wrap. They then fit into a safe deposit box or some other location that is kept secret. It may be interesting to note that the EXIF data in a photograph can include the geographic location where a photo was taken. Some high-tech criminals could use EXIF data to discover where a photo was taken & then commit a robbery. Did you really take the photo on August 14th at 2PM and use a Leica V-LUX 30? That's a nice camera and it doesn't list the geographic location when it compresses to JPG. If you had taken the photo with your phone, then it may have listed the GPS location.
Sure did use the Leica V Lux 30--it is one of my favorites as a travel camera. I know that it has NO GPS data, and doesn't include GPS tagging. I disable all cameras with GPS function, as it provides unnecessary information, and compromises security. The camera metadata tag isn't an issue, as I don't worry about hiding what kind of cameras I use--either the Leica, or an Olympus Micro Four Thirds system.
The point of separation is to do the very best you can to protect your coins. It is a known fact that the boxes and packaging that the mint uses contain sulphur and sulphur is an enemy of your coins if you do not want them to tone. But how do you know that the previous owner of those 20 year old ASE Proofs did not separate the boxes when they stored them ? I can guarantee you that no dealer has had the coins in his inventory for 20 years. In fact it is doubtful that any dealer would have them for even a month. That said, storage conditions always vary. And results from storage conditions always vary also. Every owner lives in a different place, and many owners store their coins differently. But even the same owner can take two identical Proof ASE's in their original packaging and store them in exactly the same place and way - and one will tone and the other will not. No rhyme or reason to it, it just happens. And it happens every day. So what's the best thing you can do ? Separate them and remove that possibility. But if you want to risk it, have at it.
do we say brass, for example, tarnishes or tones? i'm not sure if brass tarnishes( the term I use with brass in general) easily but it appears to in my experience and that layer of tarnish (oxide was it? which protects the metal from further deterioration) can be cleaned off (which I've read elsewhere wouldn't be beneficial since the layer of oxide is supposed to be beneficial for example on aluminum) with polish or something else. the brass in question is simply left alone but to be in constant contact with the air and fluctuating humidity which are natural events on a daily basis. Could we say a metal tones when coming into extended contact with such natural events then? in my understanding as a side note, toning is not a natural occurrence(in the sense that it'd have to be subject to some sort of process contrary to normal circumstances), unlike tarnishing which to my understanding is through oxidation which is a normal process owing to our atmosphere. Just a thought, hope not to fan the flames or anything.
Toning and tarnishing are exactly the same thing. Think of toning as a euphemism. And all metals tone/tarnish, just some faster and more easily than others.
I always thought toning constituted merely rainbow patterns but now I recall the distinction between attractive and unattractive so I suppose that explains it.
There are only two times when you will ever see any coin that has no toning whatsoever. Those are coins that just came off the press literally minutes ago, and coins that were just freshly dipped minutes ago. Other than that, every coin you've seen was toned to at least some degree.