Very beautiful coin in my opinion. I think it sold cheap considering BU is $60 in Krause, and Unc is $35.00 I thought the auction ended tomorrow and not tonight, and I was at work when it ended. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-NEW-ZE...wX3tElU6WDCMa47FuUZEs%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
I don't think it's BU...I see what looks like some rub on the cheek and maybe some wear on the hair...
Not a coin I am familiar with, but the obverse does have a very "AU-ish" appearance to it IMO. Tim, Why, back when you were a U.S. "collector", did you constantly advise the "newbies" to ignore redbook values, but now that you are a British "collector", you act as if guides are an absolute authority on value?
After looking at it closer, I agree that it's AU. I'm glad I did not go higher. Maybe I should run coins by you guys before bidding?
Sure that would definitely give you more of an idea of exactly what the coins are worth. But don't give the hyperlink. Just upload pictures of the coins. Some people here would try and buy the coin for themselves if they feel it's a good deal.
No, Tim, you should not. I mean this with total respect, but what you "should" do is take the time to learn how to properly grade on your own. Until or unless you do so, you're going to keep buying coins you regret, or having near misses such as this.
Why make us do all the work every time you want to bid on a coin? Just learn how to grade. "Give a man a grade and he will bid for a day. Teach a man to grade and he will bid for the rest of his life."
I agree. Also, know that world coins should be graded properly, not the watered down, overgraded mess that is US coin collecting. Rule of thumb? Grade it as a US coin, then deduct half a grade at least. But yeah, you really ought to be able to see this coin is AU in about two seconds Tim. Learning to grade properly will help you your entire collecting career. Its the most important skill a collector should learn.
1) Why are you posting this? If you really felt you should have bid more, just put in a higher bid rather than posting about it here. 2) This coin isn't British, so why are you even considering it? 3) The auction ended over $20, so it's out of your price range, anyway. Reference: Okay, all of those things out of the way, why not just learn how to grade? As medora said, US grading standards are extremely lax. I would go as far as saying that whatever grade you come up with, drop two steps for the true grade. MS63 -> AU58 AU55 -> XF45
I agree that it's a nice lookin' coin, but it looks as though it's been in a couple of pockets on its way to the auction!! (the obverse tells the story) XF40 -> XF45 <- AU50
Just for clarity, I wasn't talking about letter grades but descriptive ones. For world.coins.drop at least halfway between xf and vf for example. For ancients, its a full grade, so a xf US coin is at best an anciemt vf. Of course this ignores "ebay grading" which if we are not careful will destroy younger collector's ability to grade, if it hasn't already.
Yes, I gathered that's what you meant, since world grading doesn't use the Sheldon scale. However, I wasn't certain how OP would interpret your statement about dropping a half grade, so I thought to clarify a bit in a way that a US coin collector would grasp.
