Cleaned or Not Cleaned?

I have a question for you people that know more than I do about cleaning coins. I understand you can have them restored professionally, but what if a coin has been cleaned and then you want to do further restoration. Will they restore it and regrade it or will it always be considered a cleaned and less valuable coin. I'm thinking once cleaned it is always cleaned.

 

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That's what I expected. I found one that still had some debris in the ridges that I'm sure has been cleaned. If you know the two cent piece it has tiny ridges on the shield and if it isn't cleaned correctly these will have some left over dirt or corrosion or whatever. The coin was nice and if restored would probably be nice, but the value would not be helped by the restoration, only the eye appeal. To find one that is in excellent AU or better grade that has not been tampered with is like finding a needle in a haystack. I have several that I believe are original and in XF to AU but this is not an easy task.

 

I started collecting about 45 years ago, but haven't collected for at least 30 years so I'm quite rusty at this. I learn fast so I'm holding my own, but still have a lot to learn. I know a lot of old coins are cleaned, but not sure of the differences between properly cleaned and improper cleaning. Here is one I'm sure has been cleaned, but what I don't know is if it is good or bad cleaning.

 

I was looking at the tiny debris on the upper left like little specs of verdigris or something.

Anyways, how do I learn to spot a cleaned coin and the difference between cleaned and harshly cleaned? Also, if PCGS or another good grader marks a coin as cleaned that isn't necessarily bad news? How does cleaning effect the price?

 

Sounds like there are lots of things to look for. I can tell pretty clearly on some coins, but some i am still pretty iffy as in the one above. I've seen lots of slabs where it says cleaned, but not harshly cleaned. They are still asking close to retail so I wasn't sure how much effect cleaning has on a coin.

 

I don't have nearly the experience of others that have commented here but my take is that if a coin has vedigris built up in the nooks and crannies and it's absent elsewear, it's best to just steer clear of it. Both coins posted exhibit this IMO. Some will suggest most coins have been "treated" to some degree which is probably true, but why settle on one where this is obviously the case?

 

Verdigris is no proof if a coin has been cleaned or if it has not been cleaned. Verdigris is a decomposition of the metal caused by environmental factors.

 

Once again you make a lot of sense and I thank you.

 

Just a little side note. In the coin above the seller was selling an 1864 small motto with a starting price of $225 which would be a great price for this rare coin. I thought perhaps it would be a good value at around $350 considering all the factors. The coin stayed at the $225 for days without a bid and I noticed the seller had misspelled motto with 'moto' and I think this may have messed up searches by buyers. I bid $325 on the coin in the last 30 seconds, but was sniped at $350 and lost the auction. I"m not a huge fan of snipers! grrrrr

I put what I feel is my maximum comfort zone for a coin where I think the price will be a good deal and fair. Some bidiots will bid any amount to win and auction and that is tough to compete against. I thought of using a sniping tool myself, but then considered that I would still need to put up a max bid which I already did so I would have lost it anyways. Maybe my bid was too low on this coin, but I couldn't justify paying more on this particular coin.

 

You are most assuredly correct. However, it's difficult not to want a bargain once in a while. I think I did pretty well today on another antique clock topper found at an antique shop. I have to do some research, but I'm thinking I picked it up for about 50% of it's value. I collect deco bookends, a few clock toppers and some coins. Mainly collecting two and three centers and I do have some commemorative coins.
Just purchased a ... 1936 Cleveland Centennial Great Lakes Exposition Half Dollar, not at a bargain price, but looks to be in really nice condition. I'm also on the prowl for a 27 Vermont Sesquicentennial.

 

I bought from this seller a few times. One was an "AU+++ to UNC" capped bust dime. It graded PCGS AU50. Another time I bought an "UNC" 1876 seated quarter. It graded PCGS AU55.

 

I think you have to be careful and do your research as much as possible so you don't get burned. At least you got close to what you thought you were buying. I always ask questions when the photos don't give a clear description. It is human nature I'm guessing to want to make the best of what you're trying to sell. I've seen lots of coins graded that I think are over graded.

 

Here is another two center that I think is cleaned, but I am not experienced enough to know for sure. My reasons for thinking it is cleaned is because it is a raw coin without a spec of dirt. There are signs of slight wear to the shield and I think maybe the leaves on the left of the shield. The surface looks a little spotty and the reverse is spotty as well. If the cleaning isn't harsh and doesn't effect the coin value then this one is a great coin.

 

Here is one that has been cleaned. What I don't know from looking at the coin is this an okay cleaning or a harsh cleaning which would effect the value. Now the seller described the coin as BU. Upon close inspection you'll notice the right side of the obverse rim is worn and the leaves show wear. What grade would you guys suggest for this coin and do you think the cleaning effects the value?

Lastly, what do you think would be a fair price for this coin?