Okay, so I tried taking a picture of an 1840 2 pence piece. From what I understand, ALL 1840 2 pence pieces were struck as proof-like. The coin I own falls into that category (mirror-like fields), but when I take a picture of it, the coin looks dead. Short of making a light box (which I'm lazy to do at the moment), how do I get it to look more accurate while shot at 3 cm, or less, away?
It's tough to light a coin at that distance. Is it possible to move the camera back a bit and add an extra light?
The first problem with that image is that its underexposed, at least a stop. Then the light seems to be coming from very low (low to the table) at the top. Is there a way to get the light higher up and maybe set at about 10-o'clock? Dave
I can't change the F stop on the camera, since it's a point and shoot, so should I bump the ISO back? It was shot at 200 ISO, so should I try 80 ISO?
I would try a lower ISO and a higher aperature. Maybe a tripod too (you dont need to spend too much on a point and shoot tripod but i recommend getting an expensive one incase you ever plan on upgrading to DSLR) And i always shoot in RAW format (or NEF for Nikon) but that needs special programs to edit and convert (although it allows you to change your exposure compensation after the fact) but i'm not sure if your point and shoot has that depending on what kind it is. Also try some off-camera spot lighting or an external flash with a softener to avoid glares (again, i dont know what camera you're using so you might not be able to use an external flash but the off-camera spotlights will still be useable). Now i'll say, i haven't done too much coin photography... but i'm a professional automotive photographer so the advice should still apply.
Two things: 1) I'm too lazy to get my Nikon back from my friend. 2) I'm too lazy to get my copy stand back from my friend. Here's attempt #2: Before I try this a third time, the coin is 12.5mm in diameter. Shot at ISO 100.
That one has much better lighing and exposure and the details are shown better but there was a bit of camera shake while the shutter was open. Check your shutter speed when taking the photos too because it's impossible for most people to take a photo by hand with a shutter speed longer than 1/60th of a second and not have any shake. If your camera has either a sports mode or a vibration reduction i'd recommend that setting too.
Okay, this time, I went with the following: 200 ISO daylight 2 sec delay on copy stand 1839 1-1/2 pence (First one shot unzoomed): 1840 2-pence:
These are really looking nice... and in focus/no shake helps My only possible gripe is the lighting is flat, no highlights. I'm usually not keen on the (overly IMO) dramatic highlights recommended for coin photos, but a bit of light coming in from the left (ie, pointing at the face not the back of the head) might liven the photo up a bit. Dave
I am not seeing a PL surface on these like other coins but that shouldn't matter. I shoot almost all coins the exact same way. Dont change your method due to the way it was struck.
I don't have a specific answer on this one. Your first photos appeared to have a light very low, on virtually the same plane as the coin. That was too low . And personally I'd have a bit of diffusion rather than a harsh direct light. Dave
I like how this one turned out. You'd definately be fine with it like this. Their recommendations would bring more creativity to it though (and that's not a bad thing, and it would help sell the coin if you're aiming for that) but i wouldn't call it an extreme importance now that we can see the details clearly.
