first day of roll hunting

So, today is my first day roll hunting and i need some help. I've been using http://www.usacoinbook.com/coin-melt-values/ for my guidelines on what to look for but is this really everything i should watch for or are there other coins to look for as well?
And what is the whole "proof" thing? I never got those.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

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Are you saving coins for numismatic value, metal value, or both?

Proof coins are coins that have a mirror-like background.

 

Mostly metal value as i collect Bullion too but i do try for both.

And oh. Thank you. I have one Indian Rupee proof coin that i bought in a square protector but i didn't know if it was a proof because it was all mirror-like or if it was called that because it was never circulated or touched. Although it is still both untouched and mirror-like if that changes anything.

 

What denomination are you hunting?

 

Denomination?
What do you mean by that?

i'm hunting for mostly the silver american coins but other rare-ish coins are cool to find in a roll too.

 

Cent, nickel, dime, quarter, etc.

 

Oh. Halfes and dimes mostly.

 

So, there is obviously the silver aspect of halves and dimes, and it will generally be most common. Then there's proofs. Then for halves, I know there is a list of dates to look at for errors, like a double die. Finally for halves, 1987 and anything from 2002-present are NIFC, or not intended for circulation, and usually carry a premium. Hope this helps!

 

hi and welcome to the fun of CRH coin roll hunting.
Halves - you can find coins that were originally issued in uncirculated sets or proof sets. Anything after 2001 (2002 or later) would have to be Unc or proof originally, even if it now has some marks from being circulated. The last box of halves I did I found 14 2002 or later. That is a little higher than usual but I usually find some. Also anything with a "s" mint mark. and there are 90% and 40% silver.
There are similar finds to be had with dimes. Personally I look for 2009 and silver with dimes, that's about it. But there are more to be found.
I strongly recomend getting a "Red Book" since this will tell you what year/mint marks are only proof issue, as well as how many coins were minted each year (very low mintage usually equals higher value, along with condition) it is a wealth of information and a "general" price guide.
There are also books about error coins, of which "Cherry Pickers" is the most widely know. If you like detail, there are some valuable gems to be "Picked"
Really it all amounts to what you like. If YOU think it's interesting, then you will enjoy hunting for it.

 

Thank you! That definately helped. I just rechecked everything i had at the moment after looking up the error dates and everything and there wasn't anything i missed but now i know what to look for in the next batch.

 

thank you! I was wonderring what the marks were on there. So, The "s" is for the proofs? And the silver pieces were all i was looking for originally but now i'll be hunting for more. 2009 is the rarest year for dimes right? And isn't 1969 as well?

i need to get a book for this but haven't felt like spending the money on one or searching for one around me. And i dont have much time for studying it.

 

Proofs are not judged so only by the reflective surface , although such is expected on most proofs that do not have matte or mint produced special surfaces. Proofs have different edges/rims that are rt. angled and not chamfered ( rounded on point where rims and edge meet as are business strikes. They usually are better struck than the business strikes and are not thrown into containers with others, so there should be no marks from coin hitting coins. A reflective coin should be considered a well struck business strike until evidence proves otherwise. I say this as many newbies start putting up every shiny reflective coin thinking it is a proof.

Welcome to the Forum!

Jim

 

Oh. Thank you!

i'll try that edges thing too now since i am having trouble comparing shine and i haven't seen any coins with matte parts since like 2009 (and i lost it since i wasn't really collecting at the time but it was a quarter)

 

By the way, how can someone test if a coin is made of silver? Because i heard some 1971 half dollars are silver along with a few 1965 dimes but i dont know how to test it without chemicals.

And my real silver walking liberty wasn't even doing the tissue trick thing so i dont know if i should trust that one.

 

The silver clad Kennedys showed a completely silver color edge, whereas the nickel clad showed a copper core. The weight/tolerances overlap with the silver clad and the nickle clad, so weight can't be used.

Silver clad 11.5 grams +/- 0.4grams
Ni Clad 11.34 grams +/- 0.45 grams.

Other than the chemical tests ( which damage the coin) you might buy one of these. It does the analysis without damaging the metal. A little overboard though.
http://www.niton.com/en/metal-and-alloy-analysis/applications/scrap-metal-recycling

 

Yeah, that seems kinda overboard since i just started 2 days ago. Lol.
I'll just check the sides when i'm questioning those from now on.
Thanks for the help!

 

(1000th post )

 

Awesome!!!
I only have 25. Lol

 

:d

 

Dj, anything 1970 and under. You'll learn more as you go along. You'll also get addicted.