:devil: Ok, how about putting it in my wallet in my pocket. This is just a hypothetical experiment, though. I just want to see if it would be the correct way to do the experiment.
Lots of good information in this thread. It's a guess what changes in storage will do to a coins toning. Reducing the air flow is one of the best ways to slow the process. It's also important to understand what changes in holders can do. Each time a coin is taken out of it's holder you may be giving a jump start to a new round of faster toning.
Yes if you recharge them as needed. Another option is sacrificial silver. However, the primary thing people should take away is storage devices and humidity. I disagree with idhair that air flow is one of the best ways to prevent it. You can have air flow all day long, and as long as its dry and clean air it will cause nothing. Having sulfur containing paper in a storage box, especially in a humid environment, and all of the silica packs, sacrificial silver, and no air flow in the world will not stop them from toning.
Its all relative Doug. I was saying humidity, (promoting the reaction), and a sulfur source in the storage materials, are MUCH more of a concern than air quality. I concentrate on those things that would do 90% of the damage before I stress about the last 10%. I never said if you take care of humidity and sulfur toning would STOP, but if you take care of the first two it will SLOW considerably. For the small amount air quality will affect coins in storage, I put out loose fresh silver hoping they will take the toning hit first, and replace as needed. Between all of that, and storing in plastic tubes, I have kept silver and copper brightly untoned for a couple of decades now. Maybe it would not work forever, but seems to at least keep most toning in check.
Every coin I get not already in a "sealed device" (slab) gets put in an air-tite and then into my safe with a "rechargeable" silicon pack. The pack has an indicator for when it needs to be recharged. I recharge well before it indicates the need so that the humidity in the safe remain low. I also try to keep the safe door closed as much as possible while still be able to enjoy my coins. I have received a few coins that were already starting to tone and think I'll take pictures of them to track what happens. Funny thing, I have a number of Franklin halfs and NONE of them are toned; maybe the circulation wore all the toning off? Or does some kind of deposit from skin oil (or something else) help prevent toning?
You won't change my opinion. Sure reducing humidity is important but reducing air flow is still one of the most important ways to slow toning. There are several important factors.
I don't disagree sir, its just that in most storage environments there typically is not a lot of air flow to begin with. Most people I know store in flips, or tubes, or 2x2's, in albums, etc in a safe place. If you wish to store coins loose where there is considerable air flow then I suppose that would be a bigger issue. Therefor, I concentrate on things that ARE typically a problem, namely humidity and sulfur sources nearby.
Yes, I have some that have toned and some that have stayed the same after being put in a TPG holder. I sold all my modern stuff a few years back EXCEPT for a Proof 2008-W $5 Buffalo (1/10th). When I had the set graded they all came back with the same gold color. After apx. a year the $5 coin started turning a deep red-gold while the others stayed the same. It is gorgeous and it's the only modern I didn't sell. Still have it and if I can get a photo that will show the color I'll post it one day. Never seen one like it.
But you can't base things on people you know Chris. Larry and I are talking about what happens to most people period - not just the ones we know. The simple fact is that only a few collectors practice proper storage methods. The majority do not. The majority of collectors do not have a home safe, nor do they keep their coins in a closed container like Tupperware or something like that. Many collectors store their coins in albums - which we all know cause toning - and keep the albums on a table or shelf. Many others store their coins in 2x2s - which we all know cause toning because of the cardboard - and keep those 2x2s in cardboard boxes (more cardboard). And store those boxes on a table, shelf, or drawer someplace. Same thing goes for coins in slabs, Air-Tites, other plastic holders, tubes whatever. The point is the coins are not stored in an enclosed space (a closed container). They sit out in the open where the air, humidity, and temperature can get to them. And since are not in a closed container, you cannot limit or control that air flow, humidity, and temperature. The more air flow you have then the more humidity you have, and the more temperature changes you have. Controlling and limiting air flow is extremely important. I would argue that it is the most important because you cannot do the other 2 if you do not do that first.
You mix vitamin C with dry calcium sulfate (gypsum) in a sealed container. Calcium sulfate (or commercial drierite) acts to dry air and Vit C scavange O2 from air to form water that is turn absorbed by the calcium sulfate. Chem 101. You can recycle it by drying in oven at 180 degrees C for 2 hours. Commercial drierite even change from blue to pink when saturated. Put it in the bottom of flat container about 10% of total volume. Put something over it like a cloth, paper or carton. Put coins on top. Close lid. Below are some pics. I took it step further measuring the oxygen and humidity levels just to make sure it works.
Derick - It's a lot easier to just buy the stuff already prepackaged in containers sized for the space you are using it in. But yeah, it works great.
The rechargeable units don't need to get recharged that often. I use a 40 gram unit from the link that GDJMSP (Doug?) posted. I use it in a 2cf safe that gets opened about twice a day. I live in an apartment where we keep the humidity up this time of year for the houseplants. I only have to recharge it about once a quarter or so.