This is ticking me off.

Two easy solutions to solve those problems. First, if your camera is blocking the lights, then your camera is too close to the coin. It should be at least 6 inches way, preferably further, but that is equipment dependent. Second, you should use the delayed shutter release timer feature on your camera. This will allow you to press the button, remove your hands, then wait. Not only will it keep your hands from getting in the way, it will reduce vibration caused by pressing the button.

Is that Barber Half Dollar yours or a clients?

 

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Mine, and it's a quarter

 

I think the color is what's screwing up my pics, time for some different bulbs. When I shoot in black and white, it's pretty decent.

 

Are you setting you white balance? Black and white is not the way to shoot coins.

 

LMAO! Let's hope no wants you to shoot a toner.

 

Strive to make the photo look like the coin in hand and shoot the photo in color.

The goal should not be to make the photo look better than the coin.

If you are serious about taking professional quality photos, consider taking a photography class at the ANA summer seminar.

 

$6.50 a coin!??!
That's $6.50 more per coin than Robec or I charge!

 

Or at the very least....
Buy a book (Mark Goodman's)
Buy a copy stand or tripod.
And stop asking me how to do it....

 

Based on the first photo posted in this thread, the photo above is not an accurate representation of the actual appearance of the coin. Your black & white idea might be outside the box, but it is not a good solution to your problem. The solution is practice. Don't take this the wrong way, but Barber coins are rather easy to photograph. If you are having trouble with them, wait till you get to some of the really difficult series, like Mercury Dimes.

 

Right on Paul. Also, I don't know about you, but I have the absolute most trouble with colorfully toned-deep cameo-slabbed proofs. Especially if the coin is not sitting properly in the slab.

 

I find it a necessity to use diffused lighting when trying to show color on a toned proof coin.

 

I agree, unless it's raw.

Here are two toned proofs I snapped for Matthew. First one in a slab and second one raw. I am not happy with the slabbed one. That comes with experience for sure, and knowing what light setup to use.
Raw coins are a dream to image for sure.

 

Toned proofs do have their challenges:

 

Ok, this time I changed bulbs, the old bulbs were making gold look like copper. I'm now running some daylight CFLs.

 

I have had:

1. The coin laying down.
2. The coin laying up.
3. The coin at 4 different angles.
4. The lights at 6 different angles.
...and this is the best I can do, and I still hate it!

 

I shot this one straight on. No angle at all. You might want to try to back up your lighting a bit so it is not quite as harsh.

 

tim, i already told ya to toss those cfls lol get some ge reveal brand bulbs... it will work wonders for you to do that and diffuse the light... i promise you will have improved results

 

Sounds like you shoot the exact opposite of me!

 

Me too Todd. I use CFL bulbs and direct lighting. Here are some of my most recent Barber shots.






These were raw so I did not have to tilt the coins to reduce slab glare like I do with certified coins.

 

We all have our own methods and I think it is best to develop your own rather than try to mimic someone else based on web advice. My main method is CFL, coins always flat, never diffuse the light.

I would advise Detecto to practice, practice, practice, and figure out what works for you. Take all advice with a grain of salt.