Help grading these reales

Discussion in 'World Coins' started by Derick, Nov 26, 2012.

  1. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

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  3. Eduard

    Eduard Supporter**

    Hi Derick,

    I grade them as follows:
    - Chile 1813: VF 30 maybe a bit higher (few light scratches at bust)
    - Potosi 1825: VF 25
    - Potosi 1808: VF 25
    - Potosi 1799: VF30

    All nice. Did you buy these in Chile?
     
  4. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    I would go along with Eduard's grades, but I would give them detail grades only. In other words, I see them all as problem coins - ungradeable.
     
  5. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    I bought them in Chile. Some of the first coins I bought. The top one is special since it has the inverted J.
     
  6. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    Thanx. Can you explain.
     
  7. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    The 1813 has 15-20 scratches on it, that makes it a damaged coin.

    The 1825 has corrosion damage as well as rim damage.

    The 1808 has corrosion damage and is scratched.

    The 1799 has corrosion damage and looks to have been harshly cleaned.

    Thus all 4 coins would be considered as problem coins and ungradeable.
     
  8. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    Thank you. The scratches on the first one are unfortunate.
     
  9. Eduard

    Eduard Supporter**

    Derick, it may be worthwhile letting the 1825 soak in acetone for a while. Some of what appears corrosion may be removable junk.
     
  10. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Derik, hopefully you understand that I am not knocking your coins. I am merely trying to say things as I see them, as honestly as I can, based on what I have to look at. In other words to give you an honest opinion.
     
  11. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    No, do not worry, they were of the first coins I bought. The thing is with reales, very difficult for me to make a judgement because I have not seen specimens (not pictures I mean) other than what I have. Better a good true answer than a stupid answer. They are difficult coins to evaluate.
     
  12. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    When can one use acetone and how long soak?
     
  13. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

  14. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

  15. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    The outcome of the acetone soak. What you think?

    IMG_0647.jpg IMG_0645.jpg

    IMG_0639.jpg IMG_0638.jpg
     
  16. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Honestly, I think they looked better before.

    This is often what happens when you clean a coin, even when you clean it properly so that what you do does no harm to the coin. The cleaning - removing dirt and or other contaminants - often reveals or accentuates (in other words makes it look worse) any damage that the coin may have had before you cleaned it.

    This is why even you dip a coin in a commercial coin dip, you always take a chance - there is always a risk. This is because you never know if what you cannot see is there or not. It may be covered up by toning or even plain old dirt. Remove that toning and or dirt - and you might end up wishing you had not.

    The hardest thing there is to learn when it comes to cleaning a coin, or dipping a coin, is what coins you should do it to, and what coins you should leave alone.
     
  17. Derick

    Derick Well-Known Member

    From a technical point your are correct, but what you do not see on the photos (do not have correct light) is the patina showing more clearly (bottom more than the top). I found the change more pleasing with better eye appeal, but that is matter of taste. Wil continue to search for better reales that are good as is. The bottom coin is quite cool since it is very broadly struck (42 mm) and thin. I wonder if this has not got something to do with the rim damage.
     
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