How to start a Merc or SLQ set book

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Figure8, Nov 13, 2012.

  1. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    Im just starting to get into coin collecting, and I decided to either start with a mercury dime book or a Standing liberty quarter book. Whats the best way to start a book? I was thinking about buying basic coins trying to fill the book then go from there to try and update some coins as needed. I know there are lots of ways to do this, but I was thinking about buying rolls from AMPEX or somewhere else. Is this a good idea at all or just a waste of time?
     
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  3. dimeguy

    dimeguy Dime Enthusiast

    Just speaking from experience I looked at what grade I thought was visually appealing and I could afford and went from there. As I grew with the set (gained an appreciation of higher grades, better income, etc) I updated my collection grade preferences. I'm never a big fan of buying bulk purchases as the hunt and upgrading is part of the fun. If you are looking to place the coins in an actual book I would recommend the lower grade coins as toning, fingerprints, exposure of various elements always seems to be an issue. Overall, just have fun with it and dig right in!
     
  4. Kirkuleez

    Kirkuleez 80 proof

    The complete SLQ collection is pretty challenging, but a Mercury set is a relitively easy collection with only one real key coin and a few semi-keys. If you are a new collector, I would recomend the Mercury set to start.
     
  5. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    Luckily I have a 1916-d, so thats a main reason Im starting with a merc set. Whats so challenging about the SLQ?
     
  6. tgaw

    tgaw Member

    nice to get the hard one out of the way and what condition is it in?
     
  7. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    it is, I love when you get items you want when buying bulk silver for less then spot or metal detecting....

    its coming back from PCGS, my LCS said its right between g06-08
     
  8. Tom B

    Tom B TomB Everywhere Else

    Have you looked at the prices for a 1916 SLQ?
     
  9. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    sadly yes lol.
     
  10. tgaw

    tgaw Member

    i would say if you got a 16 d for spot you caught someone in a generous mood or sleeping at the stick.you are fortunate and i am glad for you.
     
  11. Kirkuleez

    Kirkuleez 80 proof

    Not to mention the 1918/17-S, 1921 or 1925-S. If you want to do a set in G-4, it can be done fairly easily (minus the 1916). But if you want a full collection of VF-25 or better, prepare for ramen noodles for a while.
     
  12. BooksB4Coins

    BooksB4Coins Newbieus Sempiterna

    Cost or having to settle on low end material. If you can do without the 18/7-S and 16 (or wish to search/wait for a dateless example of the latter) and can live with low grade coins, the set is doable, but still pricey for what you end up with... a bunch of unattractive coins. IMO, this is a type that - because of the design - rarely looks good in grades below upper AU. If you want to shoot for a nice, Ch AU+ set, even without the two aforementioned issues, get ready to place some serious cash on the table. Either way, it is not a set for the faint of heart, and definitely not one I would advise for someone just starting out.
     
  13. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    alright well thanks for the tips, I guess ill start with a merc set and go from there....just trying to get ideas for starting out
     
  14. Kirkuleez

    Kirkuleez 80 proof

    Another nice starter set would be Franklin halves.
     
  15. Searcher64

    Searcher64 Member

    To start, I would do the Mercury, because they are less expensive in high grades, than the Qts., but you have acquire from the dates from 1916-1945, and three different mints on most dates. You have a few Mercury that are expensive. 1916d, 1921s, 1945 FSB, and any over-dates. On the quarters, they have a date range from 1916 to 1930, and all will not be at all mints, the 1916, 1918s/1917, 1921, 1923s, 1927s are the hardest ones to acquire in mint state. I think that the Standing Liberty Quarters are the most attractive of the two in high grade. I only need to upgrade the 1921,1927s, and I need a 1923s. I do not need to acquire the 1916 or the 1918s/1917. Good luck.:thumb:
     
  16. Figure8

    Figure8 New Member

    whats the 1945 FSB merc?
     
  17. Kirkuleez

    Kirkuleez 80 proof

    An FSB (fully split bands) is really just a description of a well struck Mercury dime. It refers to the bands binding together the reeds on the reverse. The center bands usually look a bit smashed and appear to be only one band, but a FSB will look like two distinct bands.
     
  18. BooksB4Coins

    BooksB4Coins Newbieus Sempiterna

    FSB= Full Split Bands. The coin is unnecessary to complete the set. It is basically the same as FH (Full Head) on SLQs... some want coins worthy of the designation and others do not. The 45-P 10C is rare in FB, but this is something more for the specialist than the average collector.
     
  19. Searcher64

    Searcher64 Member

    When they were changing over to the Roosevelt dimes, they did not have as good quality with producing full strike coins with full split bans on the reverse of the Mercury dimes of the Philadelphia mint, so, they are very hard to acquire. They are in the $5000.00 range in MS 66+FSB or more. If you do get one, it's best to get one in a slab coin holding from one of the grading companies. If you are wanting to get a high grade set. I was just telling you of this coin, because most people do not think that a coin of this date can be so expensive.
     
  20. tgaw

    tgaw Member

    just information if interrested a 45 fb went for 25,300 in ms 68 in 2006 at bowers and merena.an s went almost the same price,but a coin deal since at ms 67 an fb p is 25,000 and an s is 640.
     
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