Looking at buying this coin, just want to know if it's the real deal. Thanks guys. Wants $50, good deal?
It appears to be a real (non-doctored) weak 1922D. Figuring, if I was in the market, I would pay $400-$600 for a no D in that condition, I would say $50 is a really good deal (if it truly is real). Do you detect any sign of doctoring?
here are the same pictures of the back only bigger. Sorry they're so crappy, it was taken from my computer screen.
Well, it is not die pair #1, die pair #2 (there is no such thing), or die pair #4. I have reservations of it being die pair #3 either, but your pictures are way too poor to say that for sure - particularly the reverse picture. FWIW, if he could tell you that the reverse reverse was rotated about 15° CCW, then it would probably be real. All-in-all, $50 for an uncertified coin from probably the most counterfeited coin out there, I would shy away from. You posted better pictures of the reverse. FAKE!
Either doctored or just not a recognized die pair. There is no way I could tell a modern fake from those pictures.
So here is what you have. There are 4 and only 4 die pairs recognized (see http://www.lincolncentresource.com/1922Ddievarieties.html) Die pair #1 TRUST has strong T, U, and T. Your does not. Die pair #2 there is no such thing as a weak "D" for this pair. Die pair #3 has the reverse rotated CCW, your is not along with a couple other differences. Die pair #4 bust abuts the rim. Your does not. Your coin matches none of the recognized die pairs
I would listen to RLM, he is extremely knowledgable when it comes to Lincoln Cents. Just wanted to post and say something positive My good deed is done for the day lol jk
For $50 I'd say no way! Don't waste your money on "weak D" 1922's unless it's in an ANACS slab.....because they grade the no D's as "weak". IMO, the whole D thing is way over-rated anyway. It's simply a result of the mint over polishing dies. $50 will buy a pretty nice, plain old 22D.
I don't really look at graded coins to put into my album because I'd have to break it out of the casing and I really don't want to destory the coin why trying to get it out of the slab! Maybe I'll check out the ANACS listings for the 22 weak. I already have a very nice 1922D in my album but for some reason every book has the 1922 Plain slot, even though it was an error. It's the closest thing to actually getting the 1922 Plain error. Since the 1922 Plain is required to finish a book how come the 1955 DD isn't in the books, it's a lot more common than the 1922 P. :dead-horse:Sorry, just seems dumb to me. They're errors, shouldn't be counted as a coin needed for the series.
Just because someone said that a coin has to be included in a set doesn't mean you have to include it. I have a blank planchet I found in a wheatie lot in the 22 plain hole. For my money that's about as plain as you can get.:smile And I can say it's really a '22 and nobody can tell me different. I have all the dates and mint marks of the Lincoln wheats, to me that's a complete set.
This is one of many reasons why I don't use an album. Here's my 22 no D that I had slabbed. These are actually harder to find than the DP2 coins. If you look around, you'll eventually find one of these for that slot. I sold a nice, raw one for like $80 last year.