I have a 1943 Copper Wheat Cent...Yes, Another One Of "Those" Threads.

If you believe it is genuine, send it to PCGS.

 

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In regard to cpm9ball...in person, I dont notice any silver, but that doesnt mean that the base metal is not something different. The only problem with that is the fact that the molecular weight of all metals is different, which is why a copper cent weighs 3.11 grams and a steel cent weighs 2.7 grams. If this were a different base metal with a copper coat, the weight of the coin would be off, dont you think? I am not ruling out the possibility, but trying to think of what base metal would be comparable. The only thing I can think to do is a copper test, but I dont want to ruin the coin (if it is real). Your thoughts?

 

If it had been plated, 4/10ths of a gram could account for the added weight, and it just might make a difference on the magnet test. The only real way of knowing is to submit it for authentication.

Chris

 

How would I submit a coin such as this would be my next question. Fees for grading are based on the determined value of said coin, but I certainly do not know the value of the coin, if any at all.

 

This is the nominal weight, but the mint accepted range is 3.11 +/- 0.13 grams, so it could range from 2.98- 3.24. All coins have an official deviation, but many only think about the nominal weights. Besides the possibility of a struck counterfeit or a casting ( new techniques don't produce as rough edged, pimply surfaces, and can be detected with only a higher magnification.

I do agree the photo shows a "funky" 4. The thickness and the shape of parts of the 4 and 3 is off, either due to PMD, or someone transferring a number from another copper cent. The discoloration around the "4" in you last photo seem to show discoloration around it which could be from such.

However this is all opinion from hazy photos, which need strong magnification and observation which can't be done by photos. Send it to PCGS or NGC, and the chances are very low it will be real, but best of luck! and welcome to the forum!

Jim

 

Here are a few more pictures that i was able to get, a bit closer than the others with a brighter light on it.


[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img577/8453/img20120916205638.th.jpg]
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img844/7495/img20120916205813.th.jpg]
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img832/5765/img20120916205710.th.jpg]

 

The 4 has been altered in the date. The 3 looks suspicious too, but the 4 has DEFINITELY been altered. This coin is a fake

 

The 4 does look a bit funky, but you dont think it could be attributed to the minting process or possibly even post mint damage? If it is fake, it is still a great conversation piece for my collection and I am not that bothered by it. I have held onto it for this long!

 

In a way it is post mint damage. The damage occurring when someone tried to shape the 3rd digit into a "4".

An interesting conversation piece, yes, but to a knowledgeable numismatist, an obvious fake upon close examination in hand.

I have a counterfeit coin that I carry as a pocket piece. There's nothing wrong with that as long as it's not misrepresented as genuine.

 

I can agree to that. The only thing that strikes me as odd is how the "4" would have been made. I do see that it looks a bit odd, but the overall shape is the same and i dont notice any scratches where another number would have been filed down.

 

The 4 could have been transferred from another coin. Remove a 5 or a 3 and add the 4. Don't ask me how, but I remember reading somewhere about a mint mark that fell off a coin. Still a very interesting piece.

 

It never ceases to amaze me the lengths people will go through...as far as transferring numbers from other coins! That does seem plausible, but how in the heck would they do that without leaving file marks, scratches, gouging, etc?

I can only see so much with a glass or the naked eye, but I can definitely see the "normal wear and tear" scratches on the coin obverse and reverse, but nothing around the date. Bizarre

 

I also recall reading how they can change a date + mint marks.lazier cutter I was one way I think???

 

Bottom line, this is the kind of thread that leads to snarky comments and endless arguements on CoinTalk. First step for you would be to take the coin to a local dealer for them to examine. Don't just go to one, and don't let the coin out of your sight. If some, or a majority, of them think you have something real, get it submitted to one of the grading services. This will be expensive, because, as you said, it will be based on the value of the coin, but it will put the final nail in the coffin (so to speak).

 

The grading cost for PCGS is given as $600 for the highest rarities, the problem will be in determining insurance costs. If you are going this route, call PCGS and ask how to submit it for athentication and/or grading and what the charge would be if it wasn't real. If it is real $600 would be just a small portion of its verified value. They are very good about giving such suggestions over the phone. You will not get any satisfaction from the forum's answers, as none but you have seen it in hand.

Jim

 

Impossible to get more sound advice than this!

 

Yup, A big plus 1 on that.


You will not get a commitment on authenticity from pics, but he good news is it passed the first test and no one could come up with a logical argument that it was fake. It doesn't get better than that, that is much further than most '43 coppers get, but the next step is now all you. Just going by odds alone, it is still most likely a fake, but if it were mine, I would certainly give it a go. Good luck to you. They are not ALL fake,


Mike

 

The final nail in the coffin will be when the coin gets slabbed :devil:

 

I can agree 100% with the above 3 statements. I will pass it around this week and see what kind of input I get from local dealers. If the consensus is still undecided, I may just send it in. If it turns out to be a "fake", then it is one of the best ones I have seen.

 

I think it's fake simply b/c the reverse font looks bigger than normal, besides that the coloring and copper doesn't look right on the obverse. Spend your money on grading if you choose but I think you're barking up the wrong tree.