Standing liberty quarter pricing?

I'm looking to buy a standing liberty quarter in AU condition raw, and was wondering what would be a fair price. As I don't own any, I'm new to the slq coins so any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Depends on the year and mint mark as well. Best option would be to investigate a little more, check completed auctions at HA or even eBay to get an idea of the going rate for these.

I actually don't have any in AU condition myself, I really like the G to VF conditions for some reason and have picked them up at anywhere from $5.00 to $20.00 in these grades.

 

Type 1,2 or 3? The 1930 is plentiful and reasonable.

 

It doesn't really matter. Aside from the cc Morgans I'm always looking at generic dates. I'm more of a type set kind of guy and that's what I'm going for. Type coins but also good quality.

 

Here's the standing liberty in question.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350584592118?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I've bought many many mercury Dimes from him and have been extremely satisfied. I just don't know enough about the slq and if it'd be an ok deal. Thanks again for any advice.

 

Pass on it,

 

Walk away, looks cleaned and too good to be true for that Buy It Now price. Those pictures don't look right either, as if they're hiding something. Almost seems as if they converted them to grayscale or something. Too many negatives from this dealer as well. Walk away quickly.

 

I would not buy that either.

There are probably better ones out there....

 

I love these coins and would like to have a real gem myself, but not this one at that price. If you like it, you can always send him a message and offer less.

 

Oh, my gosh. That leg looks WAY too flattened for an AU coin.

And I've taken to calling that seller (theconsignmenthub) "The Polishing Hub", because nearly every photo I see from them shows a coin that looks shined to death. They've gotten quite a few neutrals and negatives for selling cleaned coins, and they even specifically mention it in their description boilerplate ("most coins have been cleaned to some degree in their lifetime").

How confident are you that the Mercury dimes you've bought there aren't cleaned?

 

If you want a nice example of a Standing Liberty Quarter check out this listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1916-STANDING-LIBERTY-25c-MS62-PCGS-/190709931195?pt=Coins_US_Individual&hash=item2c67329cbb



It's a little pricey, but I promise you'll be the envy of SLQ collectors everywhere.

 

Here's one that's more in your price range though. And a far nicer example than the cleaned/polished one you were considering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1924-P-NICE...19?pt=Coins_US_Individual&hash=item1c2a16fa43

 

That coin has been polished. The stars give it away. When someone describes a coin with details, it almost always means the coin is a problem coin. If it were not a problem coin, he would simply say it was AU, not AU details.

I attempted a set of premium gem SLQ's a while back and found out two things. The series is very expensive and it is one of the most difficult to differentiate AU from BU. For those reasons, I would strongly suggest that you stick to NGC or PCGS graded coins in this series until you have the expertise to grade them accurately on your own.

 

Heh. Something tells me that one's going to close well above the "price range" we were discussing.

 

Concentrate looking for a nice 1930 Philly. Besides the 1917, it has the best strike out off all the issues. A whopping 50% were stuck with Full Head. Since it was the last one struck, they were hoarded so there are a lot around. Even in AU you should be able to find a nice example with good details and exhibiting a Full Head. It also won't break the bank.

Mike

 

You need to have indepth knowledge of year to year strike qualities. I keep it on index cards.

 

You first must learn how to grade them. Get a good book, like The Official American Numismatic Associations Grading Standards for United States Coins'. This book will give you the basics on all coins grading. Most of us, buy most of the time, on budget and eye appeal. You then must decide, weather to buy slabbed or raw coins. Go to shows and clubs and look at as many as you can. Then buy as you want. Good luck. I have a set that is from XF to full head MS64. The last ones that I want to upgrade are the 1921, 1927s, and I do not have a 1923s. I will not worry about the 1916 or 1918s over 1917s. Good luck. They are very nice in high grade, but expensive. Good Luck.

 

I found this in my photos the other day.



I'm pretty sure I was trying to figure out which date/mm had the best value in FH.

 

The coin you linked looks like a polished VF. Please buy a copy of The Official American Numsimatic Association Grading Standards for United States Coins. It may set you back $20, but will help greatly in the long run.

 

Its not just full heads. The legs and shields often take hits on weak strike years.