I was thinking if might be fun to do an Ike set. Now that I'm through school and starting work next week, I feel that I should start a "coin project." The way I see it...a smaller set would be a fun project. Plus, with Ike's even the basic set has a ton of variety. There are business strikes (both silver and clad), proofs (both silver and clad), varieties, Bicentennial dates, and they are a big coin (which is always fun). I just think it would be a fun set. My thought for this set was to do a slabbed set. I know a lot of people don't like slabbed coins, but I do and I have never assembled a slabbed set (PCGS and NGC only). Obviously, I will scrutinize each coin prior to buying it (like I always do). For the first time, I think I will set a specific grade threshold for the set. My goal is to have a nice looking set when all is said and done but I'm not doing a "registry set." I want it to be affordable (it's for fun, not an investment)...but again still nice quality. After doing a little research...I think the following "grade goals" for the set is reasonable and affordable: Clad BU: MS65 Silver BU: MS67 Proof: PF69 DCAM From what I have seen, when the business strike clad coins go MS66+ their prices tend to go very high very quickly. I know these are large coins and prone to getting dinged up...but I feel like MS65 is a nice balance of affordability and esthetics. Also, here is what I define a "complete set" as: 1971 1971-D 1971-S 40% Silver 1971-S Proof 40% Silver 1972 Type 1 1972 Type 2 1972 Type 3 1972-D 1972-S 40% Silver 1972-S Proof 40% Silver 1973 1973-D 1973-S Proof 1973-S 40% Silver 1973-S Proof 40% Silver 1974 1974-D 1974-S Proof 1974-S 40% Silver 1974-S Proof 40% Silver 1776-1976 Type 1 1776-1976 Type 2 1776-1976-D Type 1 1776-1976-D Type 2 1776-1976-S Proof Type 1 1776-1976-S Proof Type 2 1776-1976-S 40% Silver 1776-1976-S Proof 40% Silver 1977 1977-D 1977-S Proof 1978 1978-D 1978-S Proof What do you think of this project? For those of you who collect Ike's, any advice for me? Thanks.
The 1972 Type 2 in MS 65 is going to be quote costly. You may want to consider MS63 or MS64 for that specific coin. Stick with PCGS. I have found that their grading is more consistent and strict with the Ikes. Be sure to look for FEV and Peg Leg varieties in your quest. Check out ikegroup website. Good luck. Have fun. :smile TC
I was actually thinking I might go MS64 for all the clad BU coins...as it appears that many MS65s can be expensive. I will look at PCGS specifically. Does MS64 (clad), MS67 (silver BU), and PF69DCAM (all proofs) seem reasonable?
It's a fun set. The proofs and silver coins will be easy. The fun starts with the MS coins. You will probably see a lot of MS-64s that look better than some of the 65s.
Yes, I think you list will make for a very nice handsome collection which I too want to achive. I too collect Ikes and enjoy this coin very much. I jumped into starting my set because I had the mint set sets, not silver. I didn't take the time as you seemed to have studying the differences between the blue and brown labeled Ikes. So I still have a lot to learn but having much fun doing it. I hope you do too. zeke
Most of my collection consists of slabbed coins, but oddly enough I own a complete Ike set that is raw and in a black Capitol Plastics holder. It looks great in that holder and displays quite nicely. I think these are cool coins and the entry level into a really nice set is low enough that most collectors with patience can put a good looking set together. Good luck.
We need 19Lyds to check in. I always enjoy his take on Ikes. Good luck with your endeavor Richie. I like your collecting model.
You might try finding the "common" Gems in the raw. About 2% of dates like the '76-D and the '77 and '78 issues can be found in the mint sets as Gems. I like the Ike set. These coins can be very attractive in nice condition but they are fun to look for.
I think you'll have fun doing this project and the only advice I'd like to offer is look at a LOT of IKE (In Hand) and then be very picky. Good Luck! Oh Yeah, Forget the 72 Type 2 in MS65 since it's cost will equal all the other coins in the set. Of course, you might get lucky and you just might want to exceed your planned goals.
As an Ike collector I think your original goal was pretty do-able, except the MS65 1972 type 2 as was mentioned. Well, still do-able with a serious outlier on price! Unless for some reason you want all your clads to be the same grade (which I don't think is weird - I get my type set coins in MS65 only, when in some cases a MS66 is only a little more, or an MS64 a lot less) you could get most in MS65 for not much cash. I just sold off a dozen or so in MS65 - wish I had seen your post first. They went for very little, and had I known they would sell for so litle I would have kept them (all PCGS MS65): 1976D type 2 - $10.51 1976 type 2 - $11.58 1977D - $11.05 1972-D - $17.50 That's as far as my e-Bay history goes back. Pretty sad but you should be able to get a nice set for cheap, if you avoid the BINs. Most of the buy-it-nows for these were around $40. I would love to see the results!
Just my personal opinion, but I think you need to add one more coin to the set: the 1971D FEV. Redbook doesn't have it, but should.
Can someone point me in the direction of information concerning strike quality of these coins? I know due to the large clad planchets...these coins were often poorly struck. I would prefer to seek out well struck examples but am not familiar with the fine details of the design. I would like to learn how to pick out well struck examples prior to purchasing any coins. I will look into that one. Can you elaborate on this variety a little?
Its just a matter of time. It is now in the latest edition of the Cherrypickers guide and PCGS now has it listed as one of the required Ikes for their complete variety set. Give it another year or two.
You know...I actually think I have a nice MS 1971-D FEV that I got from someone on here a while back. I will have to dig it out, but I'm pretty sure I have one.