Assembling PF/MS70 set instead of buying a set? Would it hold the same value?

Hi Cointalk members,

Great to be here with the wise. I'm recently reached a new level in my life and have decided to invest in coins, while other friends of mines maybe into investing in firearms, fishing rods, or bicycles, I am taking the route of collecting silver and maybe gold coins.

I've recently joined CT and have been reading about the 2011 ASE A25 set. I am interested in purchasing a MS/PF70 set and comes with the nice government casing from ebay which I’ve seen go for $1200. But I was thinking, what I really want is the Early release reverse proof PF70 only, but if I decided I wanted to get the whole set of PF/MS70 of 5 coins, can I just purchase each one individually and still have the save value even without the nice government display casing?

Thank you in advance for your advise and guidance.:hail:

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I would suggest that you collect for enjoyment, not as an investment. Sure some coins may go up in value, but don't spend money you can"t afford to lose.

 

Welcome to the neighborhood!

Three strikes and you'll be out before you even swing the bat!

Strike 1) As usc said, considering coins an investment is a bad approach.

Strike 2) Paying the ridiculous premiums for MS70 and/or PF70 is a big mistake, especially if you can't tell the difference between a 69 and a 70.

Strike 3) Early Releases and/or First Strikes is just a marketing gimmick that doesn't really add value or provenance to the coin. It is merely a ploy to separate uneducated buyers from their money.

Yer out!.........Read and study before you spend your money!

Chris

 

Hi Smart driver, nice to have you here.

I have to agree with Chris. There are huge premiums on PR and MS-70 coins. To me, this is a bad investment for many reasons. The population of any coin can change resulting in sharp decreases in pricing. Collector interest in high grade modern bullion coins can go down changing the demand and prices.

if you want to invest, buy the regular ASEs raw (uncertified American silver eagles), and hope the price of silver goes up in the coming years.

 

I'm starting for enjoyment and as a collector, that means I will buys coins for their beauty and Numismatic value as well, right? I'm starting a new family and I want to teach my children the art of collecting and investing, shouldn't coins be a good start? I read that proof coins are numismatic coins and hold a higher value and very beautiful to look at so I wanted to get some proof coins.

Is every suggesting I should try to get a OGP set? or you guys mean I shouldn't any proof coins?


As a kid I collected baseball cards, comic books, toys. I never would open them, I knew they would be nice to look at when I get older that it would be also worth some money hopefully. I also had a morgan silver dallor given to me by a penpal and some ASE half dallars and put it away and never touched it. As I grow older I'm now looking into coins as I am in a new stage in my life. I never sold any of my cards, comics or coins. I am still reading more and learning more so please excuse me as I am not as seasoned.

Thank you for everyone's advice.

 

Just because a coin is a proof doesn't mean that it will have a higher value. For example, Numismedia lists the value of a 2007-S Sacagawea $ in NGC PF70 at $62.50 while the 2007-P Sacagawea $ circulation strike in NGC MS68 is listed at $163. The reason for this seeming discrepancy is because the production of proof coins has improved so greatly that the high grades are pretty common, but more importantly, it is very hard to find the high-grade circulation strikes.

You have to weigh the pros and cons on a case by case basis.

Chris

 

I think trying to assemble a 25th Aniv set buying the individual slabbed coins will cost more than buying a complete set at the present time.

I collect raw, proof, & slabbed ASE's. If they increase in value, they were an investment. If not, they are an enjoyable collection :smile

 

Thank you McBlzr for answering my question.

 

I notice that NGC graded coins goes for significantly less than PCGS graded coins. Is this true and would you try to get a PCGS graded proof instead of NGC?

 

For my set, I went with NGC 69. NGC prices were a little lower than PCGS. Prices for some of the 70's were WAY out of my price range.

 

My graded coins are NGC I don't own any PCGS coins. IMO, in most cases, the higher price for PCGS graded coins reflects the increased cost of PCGS grading.
Others may have more information on this.

 

So you get your coins from a 2nd market? Instead of trying to get your coins directly from US mint, and sending them out for grading for $15-30, is that right?

 

Can I ask a dumb question? These coins come from the mint with mint packaging, so there is not a lot of worry about authenticity. Why are you sending them out to be graded? Can you tell the difference between a 69 and a 70? Do you simply feel a 70 is a "better" coin than a 69? Do you believe long term 70's will go up more than 69's?

I am trying to understand your rationale for even sending in modern coins to be graded, why it is important to you. If you love coins and want to make sure they are real, everything you need is coming from the mint.

 

I think coins are great for kids to learn about. My five year old daughter likes bison nickels. you dont have to spend alot money to teach kids about collecting coins. I also am a big fan of art, which my daughter has really loved as well. If you are doing it for your kids, they would probably like the more hands on approach of roll searching and filling albums.

 

I was looking at some ASE that I have and my 2006, 2008 look really bad, but 2011 look clean/shiny condition. 2006, 2008 has so many scratches and has duller color tone than of the 2011, is this because the casing it's in has air coming in, will my 2011 eventually become dull color tone? I think these coins are just bullion coins, but I want to understand the concept of grading and preservation of coins.

 

OP question:
"I notice that NGC graded coins goes for significantly less than PCGS graded coins. Is this true and would you try to get a PCGS graded proof instead of NGC?"


My reply:
My graded coins are NGC I don't own any PCGS coins. IMO, in most cases, the higher price for PCGS graded coins reflects the increased cost of PCGS grading.
Others may have more information on this.
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smart driver:
So you get your coins from a 2nd market? Instead of trying to get your coins directly from US mint, and sending them out for grading for $15-30, is that right?


medoraman
Can I ask a dumb question? These coins come from the mint with mint packaging, so there is not a lot of worry about authenticity. Why are you sending them out to be graded? Can you tell the difference between a 69 and a 70? Do you simply feel a 70 is a "better" coin than a 69? Do you believe long term 70's will go up more than 69's?


I am trying to understand your rationale for even sending in modern coins to be graded, why it is important to you. If you love coins and want to make sure they are real, everything you need is coming from the mint."
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I think this one has gotten off track a little bit. The OP is asking about graded coins. I replied with what I think might be the main difference in the cost of NGC - PCGS graded coins. I could have added some believe PCGS grading standards are tighter then NGC.

I've been collecting coins since before I was a teenager. Now I'm an old guy. I bought my first graded coin, 1923 or 1924 Saint Gaudens $20 gold coin. about four or five years ago. Since then I've bought several NGC graded coins. Coins costing > a few hundred dollars I prefer them graded. All of my gold coins are graded unless bought directly from the mint.
Earlier this year I sent NGC a mint sealed box of five early release 25th anniversary ASE sets for grading.

I hope my reply answers your questions.

Mike

 

Understanding grading and preservation of coins is a great goal. This was somewhat the point of my questions. You should understand how to grade, and why there are different grades before you pay for premium grades.

Many new collectors like "blast white" coins. Many of them later learn to appreciate coins that are more subtle. Silver is extremely reactive, its very hard short of encasing in plastic, (and sometimes that does not even work), to get the to not tone some.

In collectibles, knowledge is power. That should be the first lesson you learn, before "investing" in anything you should educate yourself how and why coins tone, how to differentiate between grades, and know why you are paying X dollars for a certain coin.

Once someone does that, I never have a disagreement over what they wish to buy. Every coin has someone who loves it, there is room for all in this hobby.

 

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Did you read my post #17 as well then Rick? The OP is a new collector, and I was simply asking him WHY he wished to collect slabbed 70's. WHY was the slab important, WHY was the 70 important.

You may feel by me asking such questions I am "intimidating" collectors. I feel that all of the collectors who talk about "raw" coins are slandering unslabbed coins and making collectors of unslabbed coins to feel inferior.

I for one am "sick" of those who get mad at me simply asking why someone wants to spend money on the slab. How is that not a fair question? Was I belittling anyone who does? Was I saying anything in this thread AGAINST slabs? Heck, in post #17 I even alluded to the fact a slab can protect a coin from toning, (just not always, like any coin holder).

Edit: Sorry if I sounded overly grumpy Rick, but I simply do not see how me asking the OP questions was abusive to slab collectors, or even was making fun of them. I was simply trying to see why he had chosen the path he did, and if it was for a reason or just because "that is the way you have to buy coins".