That's the core problem, how can you tell the difference! Paul was taken on a nickel that was Proof whihc he thought was MS, and so did the other nickel maniac. If you can not trust the slab label, then how the heck can you know? Ruben
I bought three pre-1964 sets in aftermarket "proof" holders for close to spot. I bought them from 2 different and very reputable LCS. There was enough toning (spots, haze, etc.) that I didn't think twice to look closely enough to discern whether or not the silver coins were actually proof. I posted pics here, in another thread, and was told in no uncertain terms they aren't proofs. Ugh!
Ruben, I know that you have heard this a million times, but the reason that you have is because it is so true. Learn to identify them for yourself. Study them! Read about them! and most importantly look at some!!! It's the surest way to know something is with your own two eyes! That's how you keep from getting taken!!! Learn how to idnetify them just as the graders at the top TPGs have. Then you can be sure when you shop.
If all you have to go by are pics, they need to be LARGE and they need to be SHARP. If the coin is raw, and you are going by pictures then you better know your stuff and the seller better be able to take professional quality (or almost professional quality) images. If the coin is slabbed, then you can usually trust the slab label. In the case of Lehigh's post, I thought the coin looked like a proof immediately when seeing that slab picture. I was surprised that he didn't have at least some reservations before pulling the trigger, but sometimes in this hobby we see what we want to see. It's exciting, and an adrenaline rush to see what you know you shouldn't believe -- I've made similar mistakes. But, in retrospect, it was also a teaching lesson and I thought the post was very truthful and helpful. That error was a mechanical error (typographical) on the label. Luckily, these don't happen all that often -- a lot less frequently than one would think because when we find one we highlight it with a thread on a coin forum. Remember, you haven't seen the 60,000 correctly labeled nickels posted, only the 1-2 that were mechanical errors. As for gbroke's recent post on a raw nickel, I was about 95% sure that what he had posted was a proof nickel at first sight (not a business strike). Why did I think that? Mostly based on Gestalt -- it just didn't look like a business strike nickel, and the sharpness of the strike and steps were what really looked "off". Am I a pro at identifying these? Heck no, not even close! But, as the saying goes, if it's too good to be true, it probably is. If you have any reservations about a coin, then you'd better do your homework before you buy or simply walk away.
That coin is Mint State. The United States didn't make ANY proof coins in 1943. This is just a really clean, mark free, Mint State coin
part of that is because the coin in question is in an NGC holder which obscures the reeding and makes it look like they're more square than they really are. This coin is also particularly well struck