I am a Canadian and have always been a fan of the dollar coins. I have many canada ones and am looking to collect some from our great neighbours to the south. I thought I would start with something not too expensive. How are the Eisenhowers for collecting? If i was to get them in MS 63 for example. I am not looking for all the different high priced variations of any of these coins. Can I get a good collection of Eisenhowers without breaking the bank?
Complete sets go for $250-$350, Ikes were minted from '71 to '78. Check out evil-bay. Also make sure you get the 71D and 71S proof with the man golfing on the moon on the reverse. I think it is also on some 72s. I have the 71, 71D, 71S, and 71S proof uncirculated and there is something on my 71D and 71S proof. A man golfing? Who knows.---John
If your looking for ms 63 you should be able to get a full set for just over $100 would be my thoughts. The 73 S proof I guess is the so called key, unless you really want the 1972 type 2. A cheap way of getting some of the clad coins would be to buy mint sets like from 77 or 78. You'll get some nice coins for under 10 bucks for the set. I've been sending some in to be graded and have a few that didn;t get the grade I thought they would, PM me if you are interested. A very high end set cn cost a lot of money. It's hard to find a eye appealing coiin that grades high with great luster. My suggestion is take your time and be picky. Even being picky you'll get a nice set of quality coins that you'll be pround of for under $200.
Depends on if you want silver, or clads, on what you'll pay for a complete set. If clads, you can get 73-78 for around $60 in OGP cellowraps from D & P mints, 71 and 72 for about $12 each. If you want a registry set of slabbed and graded Ikes with MS63, they can be run between $225-$300 for the set.
Appreciete the input. I will probably look for a few next weekend. I will see what the local shop here has if anything and go from there.. so how many coins for a full set am I looking at? 71-78. how many variations are there for each?
so let me see if I have this right 1971, 1971 D, 1971 S, 1971 SILVER PROOF 1972, 1972 D, 1972 S, 1972 SILVER PROOF 1973, 1973 D, 1973 S, 1973 SILVER PROOF, 1973 CLAD PROOF 1974, 1974 D, 1974 S, 1974 SILVER PROOF, 1974 CLAD PROOF 1976 TYPE 1, 1976 TYPE 2, 1976 D TYPE 1, 1976 D TYPE 2, 1976 S, 1976 SILVER PROOF, 1976 CLAD PROOF TYPE 1, 1976 CLAD PROOF TYPE 2 1977, 1977 D, 1977 S 1978, 1978 D 1978 S
I love Ikes and they can be quite addicting. I personally collect MS66 for my collection which can be a little on the ridiculous side at times, but that is just my personal taste. Ikes can be cheap and a lot of fun.
I put together a certified set of Ikes ranging from MS63 to PF69 Deep Cameo, including all the 1972 and Bicentennial varieties. I took my time and found nice examples for the grade. I have PCGS, NGC and ANACS slabs. I bring the set home from my SDB every once in a while to admire it. A perspicacious buyer can put together an attractive set (minus the 1972 Type 2) for a modest investment in money and a slightly higher investment in time.
With a little searching you can find nice attractive mint set coins for next to nothing (a couple bucks). Many of these will grade MS-64 and with effort a 65 or two might appear. Most will be attractive MS-63's. If you just order the set or coins from dealers most of the coins will be MS-60 with several MS-62 or 63's.
I'm trying to build an IKE collection following the 2012 Red Book. On the 71-S thru 74-S I will get only the proofs. That totals up to thirty one (31) pieces. I am missing one. Here is what I have so far: 1971, 1971-D, 1971-S (PF) 1972 T1, 1972 T2, 1972 T3, 1972-D, 1972-S Silver PF 1973, 1973-D, 1973-S PF, 1973-S Silver PF 1974, 1974-D, 1974-S PF, 1974-S Silver PF 1976 T1, 1976 T2, 1976-D T1, 1976-D T2, 1976-S T1 PF, 1976-S T2 PF, 1976 Silver T2 PF, 1976-S Silver T1 MS, 1976-S T1 PF 1977, 1977-D, 1977-S PF 1978, 1978-D, 1978-S PF THANKS zeke
You can get the 32-coin set (BU & PF) in a Dansco from APMEX for under $280. http://www.apmex.com/Product/5303/Complete_Eisenhower_Dollar_Set_In___Dansco_Album___32_Coins.aspx
I don't have an FEV in my set, but I think a lot of people consider that a major variety. Probably #3 after the 72 and 76 types. I would also say that if you truly want a complete set, you should get the 40% silver business strikes. I'd say they're more important than the varieties. And there's some dates that have silver and clad proofs.
Also in Ikes there are the Daniel Carr fantasy pieces, 1970 and 1975. I think he also struck some of the silver ones also.
I suppose you'll find people on both sides of the fence here. Personally, I wouldn't put them in my set. But I know people do. He does do good work.
You won't be able to get a full set for $100 unless you find a crackhead selling a stolen set. That's the melt value of the 10 silver versions, not even counting the others. I personally would not build a MS63 set as most of the MS63s look just terrible. Compare a MS63 Morgan to a MS63 Ike and you'll see what I mean. For the silver ones I think you will find that you can get nice PCGS graded MS65 silver business strikes for around 30 dollars, and the proofs for about the same price (except the 1973). Or roll the dice and get the same business strikes ungraded in the "blue pack" for ~$10 - 12. In my experience you're gonna need to buy a whole lotta 71 blue Ikes to find a MS65. The clad versions are a different story as they are harder to find in the higher conditions than the silver versions. A lot of the business strikes, especially the bicentennial half are absolutely horridly made. There were also no dollars in the 1971 or 1972 mint sets, so those four will have to come from coins that were made for circulation. Below are my results of attempting to build a nice Ike set from mint sets. Each was the best of at least 5, and usually closer to 10 mint sets. The 71S MS64 was the best of 22 blue pack Ikes. I did not bust apart any proof sets. [TABLE="width: 261"] 1973 PCGS MS64 1973-D PCGS MS65 1976 type 1 PCGS MS63 1976-D type 1 PCGS MS64 1976 type 2 PCGS MS62 1976-D type 2 PCGS MS64 1977 PCGS MS65 1977-D PCGS MS64 1978 PCGS MS64 1978-D PCGS MS62 1971-S silver PCGS MS64 1972-S silver PCGS MS67 1973-S silver PCGS MS67 1974-S silver PCGS MS65 1976-S silver PCGS MS66 [/TABLE] So if you just want a representative set, it should be pretty cheap. But I would take my time and save money in the long run, 'cause right after you buy that MS63 there's going to be a MS65 come along that you just 'need'.
Woefully uninformed! What you seem to misunderstand is that these are "actual coins that were released by the U.S. Mint", which is why Mr. Carr refers to them as over-strikes. Designs he has restruck on actual Ike dollars. Furthermore, as has been discussed at length in many threads on this topic and defended here on CT by Mr. Carr himself many times, his pieces are not sold as "coins" but rather they are sold as "fantasy issues" with full disclaimer that they are not attempting to be minted as legal tender. Collectors buy them with no intention of using them in transactions and the mintages are so low that they pose not threat to the security of the currency of the United States. Please read about his work before making such careless comments and inflammatory remarks about some who has not been convicted of the crime you think you can level against him.
The Mint never released 1964 Peace dollars nor did they ever release 1975 Ikes. The coins are altered, they are counterfeit. Thank you have a nice day.