..and who says flea markets/yard sales suck for coins?

Ah man, don't tell me that. Julio told me all his Rolex's were real man!

 

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I'm picturing the local flea market with a buyer coming up to my table carrying a suitcase. He opens it up and sets up his testing laboratory. Selecting a coin, he does a little destructive testing to determine if it's authentic. Then he offers me melt value since he has ruined any numismatic value. I think the whole testing thing being done at a flea market or yard sale borders on the ridiculous.

 

Given his experience level, it doesn't really matter whether its a counterfeit or not since he's already sold the coin as genuine at $75.

 

Very true sir. I have learned the hard way in many ways in this hobby, and I believe both of us view our posts here just as a way to help the younger generation.

Of course, being the younger generation, they have a tendency to not believe what the "old men" say. No problem, I didn't either at first, and have a bunch of cleaned, damaged, overpriced coins to prove it.

 

I never said destructive tests sir. How about making sure its the correct diameter and thickness? How about evaluating details such as denticles or reeding? There are lots of little details that can give away a fake non-destructively. When buying, I usually have two of three lesser known facts about a series I use to make sure its a genuine item. I never advocate a destructive test at all.

 

I just avoid flea markets altogether.

 

A digital pocket scale with a good loupe should be more than adequate.

 

But then he has to learn what to look for with the loupe, and calibrate the scale for accuracy.

 

Just like he'd have to learn how to interpret an "acid test". Better yet, all factors used to determine a coins authenticity requires some level of knowledge.

 

It's the 1858 that has small and large date varieties.

 

No 1858 has small and large letter varieties not date varieties. 1857 only has one size date as well.

I think the FE is probably genuine, but badly cleaned. $30 was probably a fair price (of course I didn't check it for of denomination die clashes or doubled dies of which there are several in 1857.) Whoever paid $75 got took unless there was a variety there.

Even with the green spot I think the token was the buy of the day

 

The person the OP sold it to for $75.

 

Correct - I misstated "dates", instead of "letters". I was in too much of a rush to leave & wasn't paying attention.

I agree - it was not worth $75

 

You can not fake an acid test...

Scratching far below the surface to potentially underlying metal checking for plating or heavy plating is acid test 101. Weighing it is also a good tool to use in conjunction as well as your sight and sound (how the coin sounds).

saying you have to cut the coin in half to be able to acid test properly is just foolish. I have never heard of or seen a fake that uses 90% real silver just to make a tiny zinc filling that accounts for 10% of the coin.

So to clarify I guess one needs to say : If you ever have the smallest doubt or wonder, PROPERLY test it.

 

I mean if any of you knows a chemical compound that will react the same way to nitric acid as silver then by all means please share, I would love to have such knowledge. But until I learn of such a substance I will trust the nitric acid test.

 

Many, many of the Chinese counterfeiters use 90% silver planchets for their high end fakes. I purchased one and put it through all the tests down at my local B&M (Cinnaminson Rare Coins). It passed every one.

 

That was not quite what i ment. I meant I have never seen a bullion coin use real .999 silver for the entire outside then down all the way inside for the last 10% using some none silvr alloy so that they would somehow make a 10% profit (which does not really work considering their shipping and transportation costs. Which would kinda be apparent if you didnt quote half of my sentence "I have never heard of or seen a fake that uses 90% real silver just to make a tiny zinc filling that accounts for 10% of the coin." O.O

As for high end numismatic counterfeits I figured they would use the correct metals on at least some.

 

Sorry 'bout that snap!

 

There was a video llink posted in another thread a week or so. They had to cut into fake maple leafs fairly far to see the fake core. It can happen.

Btw, my point was why would a seller let you scratch into a coin at a flea market? He wouldn't. By the time you got home and discovered something could be wrong that seller might be gone. This is why I am simply saying any one test you should not rely on as a crutch. Many before you have used one test to tell if a coin is good, and had good results for many years until one day their test fails them. This is why I advocate taking a total approach to coins and always try to use many tests.

Btw, so you put deep scratches into every bullion coin you buy? You do know this will probably make the dealer discount the price he will pay you, right?