I have an acetone question. I am working on two sets of the Canada Wildlife Series coins - putting them into a 38 mm blank Dansco album. I am hearing that they are VERY prone to milk spots. Should I dip these in acetone before I put them in the folder - (yes, I will let them dry completely). Thoughts?
As of yet, nobody has ever found anything that will remove milk spots. And I never advocate dipping coins in anything unless it is needed.
Got it GDJMSP - just trying to prevent them and had heard some ASE collectors on another thread saying a prevent dip in acetone could help prevent milk spots.
It's VERY important when it comes to the care of your coins, that you try different chemicals on the market on coins that you're not sending in for grading. There is so much misinformation out there it's not funny. As an example I purchased this piece: I conserved it myself and this is how it looks today: I definitely got very lucky on this piece. In the old day's many collectors used lacquer to seal their copper coins. One truly does not know what may be hidden under the lacquer. It's very important to do your research on coin conservation, do some experiments on cheap coins, then make a decision on how to proceed from there. I have also sent coins to NCS with positive results. Every collector has to know their limitations when it comes to coin conservation.
They are mistaken, it won't do a dang thing. Of course there are a lot of people who confuse any whitish spot on a coin as a milk spot. They aren't milk spots. Milk spots are quite unique and they are not "on" the coin. For lack of a better way to describe it, they are "in" the coin. Anything "on" a coin can be removed with either of various solvents or a coin dip. That includes toning. But milk spots cannot even be removed by a coin dip - which is acid. That is because they are "in" the coin, not on it. To the best of my knowledge PCGS still has an open reward they will pay to anyone who can figure out a way to remove milk spots.
I rinse all of my coins with acetone before putting them into Airtite holders. It's a good practice to dehydrate the coin and to remove any invisible oils or residue that could be on the surfaces. If your coins are prone to milk spotting, there's no way I'd put them into an album. That's just begging to get the process started. These should be stored in good holders like Airtites.
I agree. I actually won't put any MS or proof coin in an album any longer unless it has little value.
I'm new, and it's OT, but then how do you present your collection? I've really been enjoying 2x2 flips in an album, but I don't want to (a) damage a coin, or (b) make it less enjoyable to view. Is there a special page which airtites slip into, which then goes in a 3-ring binder or something?
I've used it before with great results. I bought a very nice set of Ike dollars in an old album. When I removed them I could see the green film on them from the early stages of PVC damage. Once dipped in Acetone with a fast bath in distilled water than an air dry I sent some of the nicer coins in to be graded. They currently sit in NGC holders as MS 66's. It saved these coins. I don;t know if it would remove dirt or gunk any better than water, but it does a trick on PVC Green.
I used to work in the Chemistry lab and got a splash or two of acetone in my eyes.....Stings like ****! So be careful.
What's your procedure for using the acetone? Not asking how long, but rather the equipment...as in, what size/diameter jar, method for closing it (just screw the top on, tin foil, or whatever), for pulling coin out (grap with your fingers or use special tongs), etc. Thanks!
Thanks for the replies. I was under the impression that acetone was damaging to coins. I've been sorting copper from Zincoln's and come across many coins that need a quick wash. They are all circulated and I check them for rare ones, and after that I clean the ones that need it. Would it be alright to dump a 50 cents or so in some acetone and let them sit for a bit, possibly wipe them with a q tip and let dry? I don't want to damage the surface with a quick soak in acetone, so if it doesn't damage I'll probably switch from vinegar to acetone. I've also read to rinse with distilled water, then again, I've read not to. What would be the point of the rinse with water? If it's 100% acetone, won't it all evaporate with no residue?
If you read this whole thread, and the thread I linked to in post #33, all of your questions will be answered.
No. People pay premiums for toning but toning will not change the actual grade of a coin, it's just most coins with a tone are already in a higher grade since they've been practically sitting undisturbed for a long long time (the natural process of toning that is). There's way too many artificial toned coins out on the market though for those wanting to boost the price one will pay for such coins. So take in mind, if you like toned coins, just be aware that many could be created with the help of it's current owner and it's at times hard to detect if it's natural or assisted by shady dealers.
That's not quite true. Attractive toning can and often will increase the grade of a coin because the toning increases the eye appeal. Eye appeal is arguably the second most important of all the grading criteria - I say arguably be cause some consider it the most important. Also, toning, attractive or not, often also hides contact marks and hairlines. Sometimes it even hides light wear. So it is not uncommon for toning of any kind to increase the grade of a coin.
