DW I wish you were right about this but you are wrong. back a few months ago I wanted to sell a few of my counterfeit coins on ebay and list them as replica or novelty and ebay rules says no . The coins I have are not marked replica and ebay says it is ok to sell a coin as a replica or novelty and they have a seperate section for them but they must be clearly markes replica and you have to have a good photo of this word. otherwise it is strictly against the law and against ebay rules.. I could sell these as real coins on ebay if I wanted to be a thief and may even be able to get by with it. has any of you ever seen any of the peace and morgan and trade dollars sold on ebay as errors because the seller said they stick to a magnet.I saw some that were sold for high prices not long ago. of course I never bought any of them because I knew what they were. Well these that were sold on ebay are the same type I own. there is no way to tell them from real except to see if they stick to a magnet. a real silver or copper coin will not stick to a magnet.I hope this information will help someone. I just thought of something since I'm just sitting around today not doing much. I may try to get a photo of a few of these fake coins and put them on a new thread on this forum. This would probably be helpful for some new collectors.
i don't know this seller and it is not my coin. try to list them like this... rob http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-co...ultDomain_0&hash=item2569ca3318#ht_1171wt_932
Thanks for the info. but I don't want to try that. the folks in Japan and China can get by with more than we can. you can usually buy these things from the Japnese and Chinese by the truckload for less than 2.00 each from the novelty coin section. I think these have the word replica on them because the US asked them to do it ,some the older ones were made without it. look for my new thread on here if I can get it done and you can see a few of my junkers. I paid 1.00 each for most of mine.
Not always, sometimes the die is changed or the die can rotate before or after the clash so a clash does not always relate to the position of the other die. I have a nickel three cent piece that shows three sets of clash marks. Two close and parallel, and the third rotated some 15 degrees The dies on the other side can't match both. As I pointed out earlier,the die clash strike WOULD show reversed incused lettering.
condor you are right about the letters from a clashed die being incuse from a severe die clash. The 3 cent coin you have is mostlikely a double clashed and counter clashed die coin. sounds like what happened is the dies got clashed twice and the first clash marks that were already on the die made what is called counter clash marks on the second strike. the counter clash marks on your coin if that is what it is should be the most off set ones and the design should be raised instead of inverted on the counter clash marks if it is good enough for you to see.just my best guess without seeing the coin.
The coin that opened this thread is a squeeze job. A few months ago I also spotted one in an NGC slab. A slab is no guarantee of authenticity.
Mike I usually trust your opinions but I think sometimes you are a little fast on your judgement. I don't mean any offense towards you and we all make mistakes occasionally,I'm sure you will agree that we all can make mistakes. I totally agree with everyone on this thread that this coin does look like a squeeze job or a hammer job except it does not show even a tiny bit of the usual evidence of damage from a squeeze job. you would have to have this coin in hand to understand this. also look at how perfect it fits in the ICG cent coin slab. a hammer or squeeze job cent coin will not fit inside a cent slab unless the outer rim has been rounded back off with a lathe and this would remove the copper layer. sometimes things are not what they appear to be. when I find the time I will get someones else's opinion then we can know for sure what the heck it is. I saw on here where someone said this could not be from a filled die with this much dropped detail. well I have seen one other coin slabbed by PCGS as a genuine mint error with twice more dropped detail than whatever is on this coin has.
Rascal PM me your address. I'll send you the one I made and I'm sure you'll change your tune about that statement. You can also compare it in hand with yours and see if there's a similiariaty. Just don't try and sell mine.
I can't recall if you posted a picture of the reverse of the one you made. But just comparing the one you made alongside the one rascal has, to me, proves it's a smash job more than a mint error.
Only if a coin was squeezed completely under enough pressure would it expand at the edges. A coin impressed with just a portion of another coin will remain the same size and often will have undamaged rims. I'm positive d.t. menace's coin would perfectly fit the slab as well. Not to mention, slabs can usually be sized to fit the coin in question even if it doesn't fit the standard size for that type. Mike Diamond's judgment is highly regarded in the error community. And speed is just a sign of high expertise. Same principle as when you bring something you think is gold to a local "buying gold" spot and they need only one look at it to know if it's gold or not. Because they have seen so much of it that knowing what to look for has become instinctive. The analysis happens on a subconscious level and that happens much quicker than when you have to stop and consciously think.
I have no use for your altered coin. I spotted it as altered the instant I saw it. All anyone needs to do is to look at the deep gouges of the rim of your coin where your other coins rim has dug down into it. also look how it broke up the coin's copper plating and distorted the surface because your coin was definately stretched out of shape the same way a broadstruck coin will do.I say bah humbug to those that say your altered cent is of normal diameter. If you want to prove that your coin is even close to it's original diameter then find a solid plastic cent holder and put your coin in it then get us a good straight on photo then do this to a normal one for comparison. my slabbed coin has the letters all the way up against the rim and part of the letters also shows up on the inside part of the rim. this means that if this was a altered one the top coins rim would have had to be completely off my coin's rim. this puts the fields of the coins much farther apart and would have destroyed the rim of my coin.
And it sure looked "raised" to me, so I don't know why so many people are thinking it's a "hammered" job.:scratch:
sorry to have to disagree with you again LostDutchman DT'S coin is not perfectl round and you can easily prove that for your self just from his photo. I just got thru checking it and it is squashed way out of regular diameter in the area where his fake A is. I know all about these hammer and squeeze jobs because I have done many of them over the past years to learn how to detect them. I always destroyed every one I did. Take a piece of printer paper and cut it to the exact size as the diameter of his damaged coin measuring from the very center of the bottom of it in the photo to the center of the top where the tiny white spot is then put this piece of paper on the center of the coin half way up on the left side and hold it there then let it go to the center of the coin on the right side of the photo near where the A is then you can see how out of round the coin is. I know these things very well because of years of research on them. the altered ones are a pure disaster on ebay expessially the double sided ones.
D.T. How about you send that coin to me and I'll measure it with my calipers? Unless you happen to have one.
This is getting outright silly. He posts a coin and swears it's an error, everyone else thinks otherwise... let's agree to disagree and be done with it. I'm tired of reading this guy's weaseling. Seriously people, this is a "legend in one's own mind" scenario. Talking about it any further is completely pointless. Everything has already been said en masse. At this point it's like throwing snowballs at a brick wall (a.k.a save it for someone that actually wants our opinion and is willing to learn).
If he sends the coin to you you will not need calipers. I usually put them in between two more coins and let the bottoms of them rest on a solid and smooth table to see how much larger in diameter the altered ones is. these are easy to recognise the difference in diameter. DT can do this if he wants to.to do it right he would need to let the damaged area be down on the table or let it be turned to where it would be at the top. plus how is he going to be able to remove the damage from the rim and the reverse side of his coin ? I do not think he will send you his homemade coin.
We are just trying to be civilized and having a friendly conversation here. No one is forcing you to join in. Just ignore us if we are hurting you in any way.