Just like some people can't pass a stray cat without trying to rescue it, some coin collectors can't pass up a hard luck coin with potential. If I see something that is worth more than I'm going to pay for it, I'll probably buy it no matter what.
Yes, I have done that before and I will continue doing it when possible. That said, it's my guess that the people who say never to clean a coin, don't buy problem coins. I have had many coins that I cleaned, some looked alot better and a couple didn't. I even lost a silver dime that I cleaned too harshly and a token too. But you live and you learn. No risk, no profit.
I have an original 1958 mint set I purchased on ebay a while back. The Grey Sheet lists the entire set at $125.00. I think I paid $102.00. A previous owner placed tape on the back of the paper (the tape easily pulled away, there was no adhesive left, so I am sure it was pretty old also) to cover the tears. The coins in the slots (where the tape was placed) have this dark chocolate brown (like the color of bittersweet chocolate) almost black sections on them. Near the rim is where the coins are nearly black. I have just read 'Coin Chemistry' by Weimar White and I have no doubt that, if not already, the deposits (silver sulfides?) will damage the coins. I do not think they are valuable enough to send to a professional. Any thoughts Jim? Eric
I won a 1961 proof set as a door prize at the last coin club meeting the other night. It had blotchy tone all over the half, not sure how it got that way. Except for the dime, the other coins were all messed-up too. The local coin dealer gave me $23 to properly "conserve" it. In other words, mine will be bright and shiny soon, in the form of a silver bar in some warehouse once its tossed in the melting pot. At least there was some net benefit from melting it down. Too bad that isn't the case with modern 50-States clad sets, the coins are worth less than the energy required to melt them down. Of course the quarters can be spent, but takes more than a full set to buy a can of soda in some machines. ooops, getting a little off topic here...,,
Thanks. That was very helpful. My mother always said that sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. I remember why I stopped coming to this site.
True story from 2 days ago that's all. 1961 proof sets aren't exactly valuable even in flawless condition.
So to the numismatist that wants an uncleaned coin, this is the same as saying its been cleaned, therefore the value is diminished????
Boxeldercoin's post was a little confusing... if you submit your coin to NCS for conservation and want it graded, they will conserve it and pass it on to NCG for grading. If there is surface damage, it will go into a "details" holder; if not it will be graded in the normal fashion.
Post Hoc fallacy statement - that because of this. The first doesn't cause the second, nor does the second result from the first.
And the higher ones inteligence, the greater the proclivity to take ones self too seriously? For the record, the original statement was not meant to be sarcastic. If you took it that way, you have a perception problem that probably colors your whole view of the world around you.
I say..."The only way to learn is by doing". ...just don't do it on expensive coins. It's possible to clean uncirculated silver coins quite nicely if you're just trying to get rid of fungus or unattractive toning. I've also had nice results protecting verdigris damaged coppers with BadThad's VERDI-CARE™. :thumb: I'm sure many of you have large tubs full of modern coins with a wide variety of gunk and grim on them...clean away! ...I do. Some things work and others just make a big mess...but don't be afraid to try. :hail: