1943 Steel Cents

Sure but I mean long term worth. That was the question.

 

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Took me a while to find it. 1943-P Lincoln Cent NGC MS67 (photos by Mark Goodman).



Like I said, cool as the other side of the pillow!

 

niiicce coin!

 

If you are talking 66's and 67's, they have got to be the most certified Lincoln out there and probably the most certified coin.

 

Never seen one quite like that.

 

Wow, that is a sweet coin!

 

I got some of the WWII steel penny plastic sets also about 20 sets of 5 at the 99Cent store...I'm pretty sure mine are at the very min. plated

 

What do you mean Pay you to slab them?

 

It costs $20-$30 to get each coin slabbed and the best you can get from that is $40 and then you must pay PayPal/eBay $6 out of the $40. Unless you can get them slabbed for less, it is not worth the effort. Now, there are ways to get them slabbed for less, but it takes a lot of money, a lot of coins (100+) and probably some travel to a coin show (to save on shipping).

 

Bringing back an old thread..I have one similar looking to jac's photo, got it in a lot a couple of years ago that had a bunch of mixed coins from ebay. The detail on my penny is almost as if it came out of the mint yesterday but is as shiny as the photo jac put up. Is it worth sending out to pcgs even if it gets, rejected just for the possibility of a great coin?

 

I don't think it hurts to bring back old threads, since it allows new members and more people to see and learn from information previously posted.

As mentioned, nice certified MS66's sell for $40-$50, and MS67's sell for $100-$150. I have a few in my personal collection with some neat errors - cuds and die breaks, and one with very pretty toning which is hard to find for this coin.

This one is in a rare old PCGS "frame" holder and has two large die breaks on the reverse at 4:00 and 9:00




This one has a neat obverse cud as well as numerous die breaks on both sides




And here's one with pretty toning, it is actually more colorful in hand. You'll also notice several lines that look like hairlines (same as on Mike's coin posted above). They are actually die polishing lines. You can tell the difference since these lines are actually raised on the coin and not cut into the surface like hairlines.

 

Does anyone know of a good "how to tell" source for plating or other 1943 steel hyjinx?

 

Ebay has
1944-S 1C Lincoln Head Cent MS 66 Red NGC Certified for 44.00 so what am i missing here? why was that particular coin priced so high? there is no picture for it. As you see ebay has plenty of 1944 S's in MS 66, I'm still learning.. someone enlighten me.

 

Just because someone is ask a lot for a coin does not mena the coin is worth it no that he will get it.

A replated coin will have shine, but not luster. Pretty much that comes from experience.

 

A replated 1943 steel cent will look highly polished and too bright and too shiny, not naturally soft and lustrous as RLM mentioned. Also, if you look carefully, they often use circulated steel cents for replating so there will be signs of wear or flatness on the high points. Also, sometimes the plating tends to bubble and/or flake.

 

Here are the pennies i had in question. Any help is appreciated. Do you guys think they are re-coated? (the pictures have the titles of each coin so you know which reverse is for each coin). Around the date seems to be extra metal?
Also if they appear to be recoats do you know any reputable place i can get a nice AU set of the 43 PDS pennies, not slabbed since I want to put them in my dansco set

 

The $373,750.00 1944 cent was struck using a steel 1943 planchet. It's sort of the lesser known relative of the 1943 coppers...and 1944 steel cent.

 

I would almost have to know your photography, but my first take is they have been recoated.

 

What sticks out to you that makes you think its a recoat (im just curious so I know what to looke for).
also does anyone know a good site where I can get an AU/MS set of 1943 p/d/s that are original, and not slabbed since I want to put them in my dansco.

 

A stuck coin will have luster rather than a uniform shine.
At least on the "D", it looks like the coating bubbled.
Neither set of wheat lines look sharp.