Converting silver into keys/semi-keys.

I agree, there are a lot of new collectors who, like myself, need the overdates to complete the set.
(not counting the 16-D)

 

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Another thought would be some key older commemoratives, like the Hawaiian. This series is a sleeper right now, but just in my collecting lifetime there were white hot at least twice, with the Hawaiian the acknowledged key. Plus, these are some very pretty coins you would be collecting!

 

Personally, I would stay away from overdates for "keys". These can be included in a set or not based on collector preference. A 16d dime or 14d penny cannot be ignored, though, for a date/mm collector. I have a full set of lincolns and never bothered with a 55 dd, or overmm's. Same with my mercuries, though I have the 42/1 d, I didn't buy it.

 

I would go with an SVDB also. In fact, I'm doing the same thing myself as I need only that one to finish my Lincoln set. I rooted around and collected up all my miscellaneous junk silver, did the math , and lo and behold I had almost enough for a VF-XF. Then when I added in the few modern commems I had that I didn't want anymore that I now have the opportunity to get out from under without taking a beating on, that just put the icing on the cake.
Yay for $50 dollar silver!:thumb:

 

Hmm...

If I do opt to go SVDB, 64RB or 63RD?

By the way, I wanna thank everybody for their suggestions, it's been a big help and you've made me look at coins I wouldn't have considered otherwise.

 

go RED!!! the desirability will make for a better sale price when it comes time. JMHO

 

I would agree if it is a "good" red, and you do not think it is likely to turn. Full red cents used to be at least equal to one or two grades. I know so many people like toning nowadays, but full red cents are rare, and getting rarer every year. Someday the worm will turn and full red will again command higher premiums, as will blast white.

 

I'm not too well versed on how to tell if a coin is going to "turn" or not... any tips?

 

I meant one that has no real trace of brown, a solid red coin. "Red" covers a lot of coins, and if you can cherrry pick a better one, one farther from a red/brown, that is what I would do. Red, red/brown, and brown are all a continuum. I have seen many "reds" that look red/brown, and "red/brown" that look brown in slabs.

Buy the coin and not the slab, and all that.

 

I understand "RED" denotes a coin with 90% or more original color remaining. you're saying get as close to 100% red as possible, right? I mean, I'm not the kind of guy who drops this kind of cash on coins, so I'll be taking my time buying this coin...

It really would be easier to go with a 21 or 21-D in MS64 FB, haha.

 

There are many others better at talking about full red and what to look for here. Just throwing a caution that not all "reds" are equal, and if you are putting down serious cash you do not want a coin that when you go to sell the buyer could quibble with the designation. I am sure Mikenoodle and others would be better instructors than I.

 

63RD seems to be a tough coin to find. Lots of 63 RB and 64RB, some 64 RD's... but I can't seem to find any 63RD's available right now.

 

Coins, including copper , won't change unless you let them. yes they will tone in a slab if ignored, but if you store them in either commercial "Intercept" storage or at least store them in a food storage zip lock bag, they won't change as there is no chemically active air. If you really want to be sure, Take some new cents and dry scrub the surface until you can see fresh new copper and throw a couple in the zip lock before sealing. This active copper surface will react with any small amount of toning atmosphere before reacting with a "red normal patina" on an untoned cent. If they gets brownish, throw them in the "Take a cent dish" and make replacements.

Jim
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Good tip, thanks Jim.

Zinc or copper cents, it doesn't make a difference?

 

I use the new cents, and just rough up the top/bottom, don't expose the zinc. If you have some pre-1982, you can use those as well. I just use a new plastic scrub pad dry. Don't want to add any cleaner type chemicals.

Jim

 

How about a nice early commem? Like a MS64 Hawaii commem, as long as it is certified by NGC or PCGS. Commems are down right now.

 

Yes. And get an 1895-O Morgan to go with it.

Heck, get an 1895-O "mint set"

 

Find me an MS64 for $3k and I'm all over it. Looks MS63 is as high as I'll be able to buy.

Did you miss the $3k requirement?

 

PCGS Guide:
$0.10 - AU55: $1350
$0.25 - MS63: $1000
$0.50 - MS63: $1600
$1.00 - AU55: $1900

You can at least START on it.

Heck, depending on the grade you're going for, you can get the whole thing for $3k.

 

Well, that's way off because the dime, alone, in AU, will run you over $3k as far as I can see on HA.