What causes THIS type of environmental damage?

This is the first time I've ever seen spotting like this on anything but my eyeglasses! I bought the coin because it was cool looking and within my price range. It helped that it was something I needed, came along with some other ones I needed, and the seller had other things to legitimize the coin's origins.

That said... any theories on how this coin received the "easter egg vinegar" look to it? I tried looking up speckling and spotting through Google's search utility, but that was pretty much pointless.

If anyone has ideas or needs a larger image to help, please message me! I've pretty much given up on searching for an answer, so I'm just asking all of the forum experts.

The images are:

Obverse flash

Reverse Flash

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Buried or submerged in water.

 

So it's acid damage? (I'm guessing based upon the comment of buried or submerged, as I think of soil -- rightly or not -- as acidic.)

 

The fact that one side looks worse than the other says to me it more likely was in water, with one side exposed to more damage. Of course, other scenarios are possible, too.

 

Both sides are pretty spotty. I guess the lighting just made one side look better.

Now that actually makes some sense. I bought it from a woman who isn't a coin collector, so that may be the case.

So, now the question is, can it be saved? As I said before, I actually like the spotting, as it's pretty and unique. That said, it's filling a hole in my Morgan series, so it's dual purpose at the moment, but if it's only going to get worse over time, I would at least like to find a professional who could neutralize the reaction.

If the reaction has stopped, then this is great! However, if I had to choose between unique surface that is being damaged with each passing day versus non-unique surface that is safer for my coins... I'm not really sure which I'd take. I guess I'd opt for protecting the coin.

 

It's can't be saved, it's already a goner as far as a collector is concerned. However, you can probably improve using Doug's suggestion.

 

Thad & Doug, thank you for your remarks.

In this context, since it can't be saved, is there any benefit to dipping the coin? I mean, if no collector would want it in the current condition, I might as well just keep it so long as the chemical reaction won't continue to degrade the coin over time, right? I like how it looks. That's a personal thing.

I mean, if it won't hurt the coin _more_ to leave it how it is, I'd prefer just leaving it, then when I get tired of it, the next owner could clean it if they didn't like the spots.

Again, my intent goes in the following order (given ideal conditions):

1) Keep the pretty spotting while stopping the reaction while the coin is still a coin.
2) If I can't do #1, do whatever is necessary to stop the reaction.

#2 is highly dependent upon collectibility and numismatic preservation of the coin. If it's already in a state where it can't be saved, I don't understand the need to preserve it. Does that make sense?

Or are you saying that the damage done can't be reversed, but the process is ongoing? If that's the case, then I would understand why I'd have to dip the coin.

Again, I'm not trying to improve the value of the coin. I'm merely trying to prevent it from losing any more, if that makes any sense at all.

Also, this is specifically to the concept/aspect of dipping. The reason I think Doug's (?) idea holds merit is I received a coin with only a black obverse and a clean reverse from the same batch. Now understanding the concept of the household cleaner, this is my theory of what happened:

Coins were in some sort of binder fully exposed to some sort of thing (let's call it air, though it might be something else) that toned black on the exposed (obverse) side. After an attempt at cleaning the first coin and getting the Easter egg speckling (which destroyed the luster and caused permanent damage), the coin dealer the coins were bought from informed the individual that they shouldn't clean coins. So, they stopped and put the coin back into storage. Time passes, he passes, his daughter gets the coins.

That being what it is, the coins are now in my possession and as a numismatic hobbyist, a part of me believes I should do my best to preserve what's left of the coin for future generations. Then, there's the part of me that just finds the entire concept of speckled coins to be funny! So, that brings me up to the current moment.

If I get this "E-Z-est" thing, which do I use? Is it the "E-Z-Est Speedip" or the "E-Z-Est Coin Cleaner" that I see advertised on some dealer sites? What justifies the use of this coin solution? Does it remove all the black from coins?

Also, the Speedip product doesn't seem exactly safe. MSDS recommends PVC gloves and apron when using due to sulphuric acid content (I'm assuming).

The last thing I was wondering, how does this not constitute alteration of the coin? I mean, if I'm dipping it, isn't that altering the surface?

Again, these aren't meant to be argumentative, but moreso inquisitive. I'll probably have to find this stuff at a coin shop or industrial supplier locally since the USPS only allows for the tiny containers to be shipped.

 

IMO it's basically worth melt now. I'd just protect it from air/moisture from here. Better yet, sell it and use the money to buy something nice.

 

I tried PMing you, but I guess you don't respond to those. From your comment that it's worth melt, you're stating that it's not even worth PO1 value at this point? That is really disappointing, and, if true, I may as well leave it as is, since it will never be worth more than 24g Ag.

Oh, and thank you John for your responses, as well.

 

I worry about cross contamination of other coins being stored with that one.

 

Thanks for all of that info! Now, on this specific point, the only store that seems to have any E-Z-Est product has the stronger one in stock only, and they told me it's the one they use on their coins. To be honest, I think the guy who answers the phone is just looking for a quick sale. I asked about using tongs, and he told me to use my fingers. It really made me wonder about collecting in general in Hawaii since this guy's shop was recommended to me by another coin dealer for supplies. Also, he is located in the high rent district (the second lowest rent commercial building in the high rent district, but high rent, nevertheless), so it worries me that the majority of starting collectors would go to this guy because of location.

Anyway, the speedip is my only option, as everywhere that I called referred me to this guy's store, and he only had the speedip in stock. He said his next supply shipment isn't due for another month. Anyway, since Speedip seems my only option for the moment, do I cut the time down to 1 second? Also, how do I use this stuff? Do I just dip the coin in the container? I'm thinking the acid can't be THAT strong, since it's shipped in what appears to be a plastic bottle.

Oh, and Noost, does that mean I should dip all the coins I purchased/purchase from the woman? She has some nice uncirculated pieces, to be honest.

 

Would a dip in Acetone leave the toning but stop the process that created it? Allows the OP to keep a "cool looking" coin and ensure no further issues.

 

Thank you for understanding what I was trying to get at.
It seems I won't be able to keep the cool coin, since the process would eventually make it disappear.

Here are some close-ups of the eyes. The fact that the whatever colour got into the eyes is part of what makes it cool to me. I'm guessing that might still be present after the dip, since those are pretty deep recesses.

 

If I might add my little bit to Doug's well defined answer about dipping. I dilute the dip with distilled water before using and then discard after use. If there is just a small amount of UT ( ugly tone/corrosion), I dilute it 1 part dip : 9 parts distilled water. If it is deeper than that, medium or dark grey, I use a 1:4 ratio. Only on hideous would I use full strength. The dip is a combination of sulfuric or other acid and a compound such as thiourea. Diluting with distilled water increase the time the action takes. Full strength, you can go beyond the endpoint in a few seconds. Diluted , you can watch the effects and not be rushed to stop the action of the acid. IMO.

Jim

 

Thanks for the advice, Jim.

Doug, so now that I have the bottle of the wrong type of coin dip, what should I do with it? Seems like a waste of $6 at this point. I want to avoid having to purchase from a non-local supplier, as I'm still not entirely sure on how the USPS hazardous materials rules work. If I have to use UPS, it will cost ~$15 to ship the 5 oz jar/bottle.