Freakin' Mother Load...

Wow crazy, I will list some more soon. Wife is warming up to pic's too, after she read this post, her interest is growing.

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Oh, forgot to add, at worst, that $10 gold eagle is worth $660... purely on bullion content. There is probably some numismatic premium attached to it, depending on condition.

 

Just for your information.

After determining whether you have keys (date and mint), you should consider grade.

This is a link for Photograde which is a good BEGINNING point for grading. Grading is based on wear and some people net grade for value when there are condition problems such as polishing, pitting, post mint damage, unattractive toning, poor strike and corrosion.

http://www.pcgs.com/Photograde/#/Morgan/Grades

For example, An 1883-S Morgan is listed at $25 or $3 over melt in VF20 and $25,000 in MS-65. Your coins were pulled from circulation, but there were many AU and near BU coins from that era because the Mint released many Uncirculated Silver Dollars which had been in the Mints vaults for years. If you have any which look new or almost new, mention it and photograph it for the best advice.

 

On the 79-S, on the reverse, is the top arrow feather parallel to the shaft or is it slanted?

Chris

 

1921 - 44,690,000; 1921-d - 20,345,000; 1921-s - 21,695,000

 

The Pittman Act had nothing to do with the mintage of the 1921 Morgan dollars. The Pittman Act was passed in 1918 and authorized the melting of 350 million silver dollars so the US could sell the bullion to Great Britain who was faced with a critical shortage of silver. I believe that only about 300 million were actually melted.

Chris

 

WHOA ! I had to jumpa ahead when I saw "Melt is that the best option/" NOPE. Melt is the actual value of silver in the coin. Silver coins that you have are nearly always more valuable to collectors. Coins in even less than an uncirculated condition often command premiums from collectors. Consoder that the ANA (American Numismatics Assn) boasts over 33,000 members and that is but a fraction of the collectors in the US. If I could read the date and mint marks, I would sort it out. Only those coins that were so badly worn or damaged as to not be worthy of ANY collector would be sold for melt.

But as the OP pointed out, silver commands a high return right now and that may not always be the case, but I feel it will hold for several months yet. However, time may be of the essecnce ? IMHO

 

If what i am looking at is what you mean under the eagles talons the top feather is at an angle.

 

Then it would be the "79 Reverse" which is the common one. The parallel arrowfeather is the "78 Reverse" which is less common and worth more.

Chris

 

Off to work tomorrow, for 4 12 hr shifts, once the week is up I will list some more. Then get into some of the half's. For today football, watching my Seahawks get destroyed....

 

Have faith, they somehow beat nawlins! Still two quarters left.

 

Take your time. Don't rush it. Stay calm. Work with small amounts at first. One bag at a time. Don't go dragging them all out at once. Tape numbers on them so as you don't repeat yourself. Once you get a systematic list going, like for each bag, it'll be a lot easier to see the flow of information that you need to understand what each and all your coins are worth.
We are here to help and advise you. There are good folks here with years and years of knowledge and experience. So ask, ask, and ask questions. It'll all sink in believe me. If you can get you wife to help that would be fine. Have her wear cotton gloves so her hands won't get filthy. Wizard Coin Supply is the site I use. Shipping is a little high but they get your order to you ASAP.

 

I almost gagged when I saw,"Tape Numbers on them." The glue residue can begin the process of corrosion so my advice is to use a container , preferably glass lined with tissue, glasses cleaning cloth or micro fiber sheets, to separate the coins. Perhaps label the containers. the advice about working with small amounts is very good. Learn on a few before tackling the mountain. I use cotton liners, but they're not readily available, especially in large quantities.

Just remember, the better shape it is to begin with, the more care you should take when handling it. Never hold a coin by the top and bottom, use the edges. Fingerprints can hurt a high grade coin a lot more than a low grade coin.

 

Marshall, I meant tape numbers on the bags not the coins. One small peice of magic tape won't hurt anything. zeke

 

I think he meant to tape numbers to the bags, not the coins.

I took that to mean, "Tape numbers on the bags . . ."

 

I think that we, as collectors , all know that we shouldn't 'tape' anything to a coin.

I believe that Marshall was eloquently trying to illustrate that point to the OP......

 

I learned the hard way that you can never take any coin etiquette for granted when I brought some nicer raw coins to a coin club and some members commited the cardinal sin of holding them front and back rather than by edges and over the floor rather than carefully over the tables. We take these niceties for granted at times when we should pass them along the newer collectors. A new collector may or may not know what was intended.

 

Carumba.....

 

You've got that right, Marshall. One time I waited for two hours to get my 1999 WAM looked at and I saw what you described.
Luckily my cent was in a 2x2. On top of everything else none of the four dealers there knew anything about my cent. The weather was also lousey. I chaulked the whole thing up as a learning experience.

 

What did you end up doing with it? I think I'm just gonna toss mine up on ebay, unslabbed... debating it.