I bought my first graded coin online from a reputable coin dealer on Ebay. The only imperfection is a spot on the last s in states on the reverse. I paid $99.99 it's listed on PCGS for $150.00 How did I do? Thanks. p.s. - tried to attach photos of it but it didn't work....
Hmm I just checked www.cheapslabs.com and they had a 43-P MS67 for $70.00 and an 43-d in MS-66 for $25.00 If you like it, then it doesnt matter the price you paid for it.
The 1943 Shoewrecky references on cheap slab is NGC and not PCGS. That makes a difference. That is a fair price for a PCGS certified coin. They go for $90 to $150 at Heritage
PCGS lists a 43-D MS-67 for $150. And NGC lists $120. I say for $100, you did well. Congrats on your purchase :thumb:
The going rate for a PCGS MS67 seems to be in the range of $85 to maybe $150 or so, depending on the quality (not all MS67 examples are created equally). So, as long as you got a nice lusterous spot-free example, then I think you did well. High grade steel cents are pretty cool. Here's my pics of my PCGS MS67 example which I bought a couple of years ago for $100... I think it's pretty much perfect!!!
For common coins in the highest grades. 60-70% is very good! You did very well. People will argue you could have been done better and you can if you are just buying the label.
Yep... many folks unfamilar with them may look at a photo like that and think the coin may be cleaned... But cleaning marks on a coin cut into the surface of the coin and leave marks below the flat surface of the fields of a coin. Alternatively, die polishing is pretty much cleaning the surfaces of the die whereby the lines cut into the surface of the die. Then, when a coin is pressed using that die, the die polish lines show up as raised lines on the surface of the struck coin. Same goes for die cracks that you see on many coins.
Here is a pic. of my 1943 D, but something just dont look right on the obv. to me what do you think, has it been dipped or what? The rev looks good.
Sounds like you did well. Congrats. The difference in price between a 67 and 68 is staggering. And yet 68's are always in high demand. I've been looking for a 68 Philly and SF for a few years. No luck. Here's my Denver. Lance.
They'll re-plate these to restore some color to them and that always impairs the cartwheel reflectivity. That said, you did a fine job on these pictures, they zoom-up nice and clearly; yet, quite honestly, I still can't tell from them whether this coin has been re-plated. I can't imagine a MS-67 without cartwheel reflectivity, however (if that should be of any help).
I think Eddie's guess is correct. I have two replated steel cents, part of an estate set I bought last year. In hand they look incredibly clean, bright and flawless. But the luster is very off; no cartwheel at all. Under a loupe you can see graininess from the plating. I don't know what to do with them. They're a little interesting as a novelty, I guess. Lance.
The way I check for replating is to look at the edge. If it is zinc plate, it has been replated. Original coins show steel on the edge, not zinc. Jim
That's a good point, DG. The rim on an unplated steel cent would likely be rougher and somewhat different in color...duller. You can actually feel a difference. Lance.
