I would like some opinions on this ebay 1916-D Mercuey dime, do you think it is real and unaltered? Thanks for the input, I may bid if it doesn't go too high. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330506586529&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:US:1123
Something doesn't look quite right with the 6 in the date... but I am not any where near an expert on mercury dimes...perhaps that's how those look from that year though.
The seller grades it g+, I am thinking more like fair-2, maybe an ag-3 but I doubt it. I would have to have a certified example on this key date, too much wear for this novice to say it is a 16-d
The six looks damaged but I don't have the expertise to tell if it's fake or not, dimes aren't my forte. Wait, why am I even posting in this then?
It appears genuine to me as far as the date is concerned, none of the tell tale signs I was taught to look for, but it does make you wonder why it was not submitted to at least garnish a genuine label? This would certainly boost the selling price. The problem with really nailing this one down is that there are various methods of altering or adding the mintmark which is pretty hard to scrutinize as much of it is gone. One thing for sure that merc has been through the ringer!
I agree with Justndav76 that there is something wrong with the 6. Looks to be altered or DD. I know this is a rare coin, but I can't imagine paying this price for such a worn coin. Where's the "D" ? I am not an expert either, just my opinion.
I'm not up on dimes, but I can't tell if it's a D or an S with a ding above it. I'd check out several worn 1916-S coins to see if that can be eliminated first.
As noted in a number of Barber coin discussions and else where, quite often if the coin is a low grade it is genuine. The reasoning is that in order to create the MM metal is needed to 'chase' the silver to create the MM. With very low grade pieces it is usually not possible. That said if the MM is nice & clear & defined, then it is a fake. That is not the case here. But, I am sure that Doug will disagree with me...
I'm guessing it's authentic, but as others have mentioned, over-graded by the seller. There's no way that coin is G4, I doubt it's even AG3.
AG3 is a bit high, I am looking for one I can afford, I have bid, but probably not high enough. We'll see. I've needed this one forever.
i would grade that F2. even if its genuine it doesnt seem like the kinda coin worth buying outside of a slab.
My 2 cents If was looking for 1916-D Mercury Dime,ebay would not be in my a good place to find a real one. the one pictured is not a 16-D, that why the photo is so dark.
I have seen fair 16d's before, and my concern would be the top left denticle of the D. Usually it is not that clear, I would check under a microscope for tooling, which given the low state of preservation could mean it was an S that was tooled to a D. I know its hard since you were asking opinions here in order to buy the coin. From the surface it appears a genuine 16d, this would be the first thing I would look under a scope for in person. The other question is would you be happy with this example? I know many collectors just like to fill holes, but wouldn't you be happier long term having a little higher grade, with a clear mintmark and more details?
Dark unclear photo of 1916-??? Key date $180.00 way to much to wasted on a hole filler IMO+ ebay. No way
I try to learn something new every day. Now I have for today. Thanks Frank! I never really thought of it from that point of view. It makes perfect sense, though. To the OP, if you're willing to gamble on it, then roll the dice. The coin needs to be certified. The guy selling obviously doesn't know now to grade it, so I suspect authenticating it may not be his strong suit either.