What You Need to Know about the Incomplete Planchet Error

What You Need to Know About the Incomplete Planchet Error
Or, Who took a bite outta my coin?

By Jason Poe

The world of error coins is often viewed as a strange niche, populated by people who like the weird coins, the messed up coins, the ugly coins. These coins are the red-headed stepchild of the minting process, so to speak – what happened when something went wrong. To an error collector, the more wrong it is, the cooler it is. Multiple errors are even more desirable, and it’s often a fun puzzle to try and figure out what exactly went wrong. Studying what went wrong can often tell us much more about the minting process than the beauty of what went right.

I’ve laid this discussion out in three main sections – creation, authentication and appearance, and collecting clips. I’m going to try and make this discussion as thorough as possible, so go grab a nice glass of tea, sit back, and enjoy the ride!


(An attractively toned 1956 incomplete planchet Franklin)

One of the simpler errors, and one of the easier to understand, is known technically as the “incomplete planchet error,” although it is almost universally known by its more common name of “clip.” Purists are rankled by this misuse of terminology, insisting that clipping should only refer to the nefarious process in old times of shaving a slight amount of precious metal off the edges of coins. Reeding was added to the edges of coins to prevent and readily identify clipping.

The clipping that we shall be concerned with today is a very different occurrence – and happens during the minting process. Error collectors divide errors into three broad categories: planchet errors, die errors, and strike errors. The incomplete planchet error, as can be guessed, is a type of planchet error. The actual error occurs when the blanks are being punched from the metal strip, near the beginning of the process. Sometimes, these errors can be quite dramatic, with a large percentage of the planchet missing. More often, only a small percentage is “clipped.”

As the metal strip is being fed into the blanking machine, a punch and cutter cut circular blanks out of the strip. After each punch, the strip is fed an incremental amount further into the machine. A normal strip, after blanking operations, looks like the strip on the left. However, sometimes the strip slips or gets stuck, and doesn’t move the full increment. For example, if the strip is fed at the wrong speed, the strip will not move far enough between punches. If this happens, the punch will then overlap the previously punched hole – and the resulting planchet will be incomplete. It will have a crescent missing with exactly the diameter of the punch (this detail will be important later).

In the illustration below, there are a number of different kinds of clips illustrated, which we shall discuss next. This hypothetical strip of metal was fed into the blanking press, but it got stuck and shifted about halfway through, resulting in all these errors. The white circles represent whole, complete blanks; the dark grey circles are the incomplete planchets. Imagine that the punches started at the left, and worked to the right.


(Hypothetical metal strip, showing different kinds of incomplete planchet errors)

Besides the curved clip, there are a few other types of incomplete planchet errors which can occur, although all are generally lumped together and called “clips.” The above type, where the punches overlap each other, is widely known as a “curved clip,” and is by far the most common type of clip. The other two types are less common, and will thus usually garner a premium. The second type is when the metal strip is not aligned properly in the blanking press, and a punch overhangs the edge of the strip. The punch will create a blank with a “straight clip” at the edge. The third type of clip is known as a “ragged edge clip,” and is similar to the straight clip, but it happens at either end of the strip of metal where the strip is irregular and jagged. The 1963 Franklin clip below was labeled by ANACS as a straight clip, but I believe it to be the less common ragged clip, due to the irregular edge. A straight clip is, quite literally, very straight (with exceptions which shall be discussed below).


(1963 ragged edge clip Franklin)


(Close-ups of the ragged edge clip)

Sometimes, the strip is improperly placed such that there is more than one “clip.” Just about any combination of clips you can imagine can occur: double curved clips, curved clip with straight edge clip, or even a corner clip which occurs when the blank is punched from the corner of the strip – and is quite rare. The more clips there are, the rarer the coin is, and if there are different kinds of clips the coin is obviously even more desirable to error collectors. I only own one multiple clipped coin, the 1963D Franklin pictured below. The second clip is rather minor, but still cool!


(Close-up of double clipped 1963D Franklin)

Between blanking and striking several steps occur, which may include (based on the metal, era, mint, and intended product) annealing, washing, polishing, and rimming. It is this last which is of interest in the incomplete planchet error. Rimming a blank helps smooth the surfaces of nicks and grooves, evenly distributes the metal for a proper strike, and creates the upset edge around the outside face of the coin, which is useful for a number of reasons. (Note that in precise terms, the metal disk is known as a blank before rimming, and it becomes a planchet after rimming.) To rim a blank, the blank is fed into the upset mill which contains a specially shaped groove. Placing pressure on both sides of the coin pushes and raises the rims – the same idea is used to “spoon” a coin. However, on an incomplete planchet, the coin is not round. Pressure cannot be properly applied at the missing area – which means the rim directly opposite is also not formed properly. This is known as the “Blakesley Effect,” named after the numismatist who first studied the phenomenon. After upsetting, the planchet travels to the coining room and is struck.


(Picture of an old upset mill, taken from the Dictionnaire encyclopédique Trousset, also known as the Trousset encyclopedia, Paris, 1886 – 1891, found on oldbookillustrations.com)


Incomplete planchet errors, like all coins with some value, are often faked and counterfeited. It is probably the most commonly counterfeited error, because it is the easiest to approximate and one of the most recognizable. The most common method of forging a clip is to simply take a punch from a tool and die shop and cut out a curved crescent from the coin. A straight clip is faked by taking a file and grinding off a portion of the edge of the coin. However, the clip is very difficult to properly counterfeit, and there are several tools in the numismatist’s arsenal which will help prove whether or not it is genuine. These characteristics are difficult to forge.

The first and easiest is the Blakesley effect. The Blakesley effect is a sure sign that the clip you are examining is genuine, but not all clips possess them. A very strong strike will sometimes raise the rim and hide the effect. The size of the clip does not matter in producing the Blakesley effect – even very minor clips display the effect. I have a 1954S with a minute clip, but which still exhibits the characteristic weakness of the rim opposite.

I have displayed two coins below: one showing the Blakesley effect very well, the other not showing it. The first, a 1963D circulated Franklin with a nice clip, shows a very strong Blakesley effect directly opposite the clip. Notice the weakness in TY of “Liberty” (on the obverse) and LLAR of “Dollar” (on the reverse) and how the rim gradually fades out. This gradual fading is key to the Blakesley effect – it will not be an abrupt transition. I have not yet seen a fake incomplete planchet error with a convincing attempt at the Blakesley effect (indeed, I’ve only seen one fake where it was even attempted). The second coin shown below is a very attractively toned 1963 clipped Franklin which does not show the Blakesley effect. Remember, a strong strike can counteract the weakness of the rims, especially when the clip is smaller.


(A nicely clipped 1963D Franklin showing the Blakesley effect. This is the same coin shown in close-up above, highlighting the double clip.)

(A well struck, and nicely toned, 1963 clipped Franklin which does not show the Blakesley effect)

The next characteristic of the clip is often hard to see if the coin is slabbed. The action of the punch and cutter punching blanks from the strips creates a characteristic shearing effect on the edge of the coin. The edge of the clip will not be smooth, it will be sheared. The EdgeView holder has the advantage of being able to view the edge, but getting the appropriate angle for accurate view of this might be difficult. This also only applies to curved clips, of course. The sheared edge is the easiest aspect of a clip to properly fake – because the same shearing action is used to cut the coin when making a fake.


(The sheared edge of a genuine clip)

Note that a curved clip will always begin life with the exact same diameter as the coin the clip is on. This only makes sense, because the missing area is from the same punch as the coin itself. Variations will occur due to metal flow during striking, but the approximate size will remain. If you see a curved clip on a Kennedy with the diameter of a Lincoln, you know it is a fake. If you see a Lincoln with a clip with the apparent diameter of a Kennedy, it is probably also a fake – but it might be a straight clip with metal flow. This is when you must examine the striking characteristics and evidence of metal flow.

The metal flow around a clip is distinct and unmistakable. There are three primary things to look for on a clip – the dovetailing of the rims, distortion of the elements, and metal flow towards the clip.

Because a clip represents an area of missing metal on a planchet, when the coin is struck the metal will flow to fill the missing area. This is why very small clips will appear like none of the coin is missing. Weighing the coin will show a slight amount gone, and an examination of the rims will show the dovetailing which is always present. Notice in the close-ups which follow how the rims always taper off towards the clip. This distinct look is characteristic of a genuine clip, and only by examining several incomplete planchets can you get a feel for how it is supposed to look.


(Close-up of the clipped area of the 1963D Franklin, showing the tapered rims to great effect)

The incomplete planchet will cause elements near the clip to become distorted as the metal flows towards the missing area. Again, the elements will seem to fade out towards the clip, in a distinct and characteristic fashion. Again, looking at several genuine examples will serve to illustrate and teach much better than any description I can provide.


(The now oft-shown 1963D makes another appearance. This time, note how “GOD” appears stretch and seems to disappear into the clip)



(A nicely toned 1958 with a decent clip, with close-up underneath)

As metal flows towards the clip, you will often see strong flow lines in the area. Straight clips, depending on their size and the size of the coin, will sometimes appear bulged outwards because of this flow.


(Close-up of the 1958, showing strong flowlines around “OF”)

Clips are popular errors to collect. The larger clips can often be quite dramatic, and multiple clips produce interesting coins. Incomplete planchets are measured in two ways, either by their weight or the percentage of incompleteness. For example, the main clip on the 1963D which I have shown several times now has diameter of 29.89 mm (compared to the standard size of a Franklin of 30.6 mm.) This equates to about a 3% clip. My 1958 clip is about 4%. When the clip is above 15% the premium increases significantly. The premiums for straight and ragged clips are higher, and multiple clips are even more desirable.

When talking about clips, it’s important to effectively communicate the position of the clip. For this, error collectors use the Kolit position, universally abbreviated as “k.” The Kolit position refers to the clock location – the bottom would be k6. For example, my 1958 above would properly be described as a “4% incomplete planchet at k5.” You may also see it described as a “small clip at k5.”

There are several popular ways to collect clips, and they are generally much the same way off center errors are collected. The first is to try and get a coin with a clip at each position of the clock – 12 coins in all. Other collectors try and get a clip from each date (or date and mintmark combo) of a coin series. I know franklinlvr is attempting to do this with the Franklin halves. Still other collectors like to try and get a series of clips of increasing magnitude. Their display would start with a full, regular coin, and then each successive coin has a more severe clip, usually in intervals of 5-10%.

Incomplete planchets are rarer on large coins than on smaller ones, and will command a premium. Incomplete planchets are also much rarer on silver coins. Finding significant incomplete planchet errors on coins like Franklins, Morgans, or Barbers is possible but difficult. Indian head cents will be the easiest and most affordable 19th century type for clips. Incomplete planchets are incredibly scarce on earlier coinage such as Seated Liberty and Capped Bust type. By far the most common incomplete planchets are on modern coinage, and can be obtained for less than $10 depending on the type, and magnitude, of the clip. Just for reference, the Franklins shown in this thread are all valued between $35 and $65. Earlier or larger clips will only go up from there.

Well, this went on quite a bit longer than I expected it too, but I wanted to be thorough. I hope you are now inspired to go out and find a clip or two to add to your collection! They are an interesting and dramatic error, yet readily available. They are also a great conversation starter!

I’ll leave you with my last Franklin clip, a 1954S with a very minor clip.

Jason Poe


(Minor clip on a 1954S)

 

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wish I could nominate this. Great post!

 

Well done, Jason. Really enjoyed this.

 

Thanks for taking the time to explain these things, in my work some few years ago we recieved a sheet of steel that had what looked like part of a tin can that had not been homogenized into the metal, the rest of the sheet was fine, since the part that had the imperfection was near the edge we were able to avoid using that part, has the same thing ever occurred with a coin, where possibly part of an old morgan was found in a half dollar? I think it would be possible, but I have never heard of it.

 

Thanks y'all

 

Great Post physics-fan3.14,

Perhaps someone could post an example or description of an elliptical clip. Also, genuine clips on post 82 plated Lincoln cents are tough. There are many fake pre 1982 cent clips.

Post ‘em if you got ‘em.

 

I agree, wish I could nominate it.

One question: could you explain flow lines a bit more? I guess I just don't see what you are talking about there.

 

Sure, and thanks for the compliments.

The flowlines I speak of are a little bit hard to see, but they look like lines going underneath the devices in the direction of the clip. Its part of the "stretched" look that I was mentioning. There are two manifestations of the stretching - the devices look stretched, but the metal itself looks stretched also. This is because the metal will flow to the area of least resistance. When a piece of the intended coin is missing, the metal will not flow up into the die, it will instead flow into the missing area.

 

Once of the best explanations of clipped planchets I have seen - thank you for sharing it!

 

As always, extremely great post! Saving this page for my records for sure!

 

Really interesting and educational. And if printed out a good reference. As I usually comment about such post though. After a very short time they just vanish to page 2, then 3, then on and on until lost. There are a few members that somehow can find old posts but most do not even look. So with all the info you posted, whoever reads it now is probably the only ones that will see it. To bad there isn't an educational sticky on this forum so info like this stays around. You did a lot of work on this one but as I said in a few days or weeks it will be lost.

 

I physically copied it into my own online library for future reference - and I don't do that very often. This is an excellent reference, and it is obvious it took a lot of time and research to put together. I am among those who wish I could nominate it for anything and everything!

 

Yup. Outstanding post. Interesting, informative, and thorough!

 

I usually print out such info and have quite a lot of self made books with such info in them. I like this idea since I make a book of what I like.

 

That's an excellent article!

 

Outstanding post!!! THANKS!!!


Did I miss something? Why can we not nominate it for post of the week?

 

October purchase

I'm posting my Ike coin here to bring this thread back up to the first page. I purchased this Ike last month in East Haven Connecticut. It is in an old ANACS white slab. I'll post some close-up photos of the clip (incomplete planchet) in a few moments.

 

Here are a couple close-up photos depicting the clip area. You can see that the letters at the clip are not fully formed as they were starved of proper metal flow. You can also see some exaggerated metal flow lines at the clip area.



Very best regards,
collect89

 

Nice clip! Those last pics show the metal flow I was talking about very well, thanks! Anyone else got any clips out there?

 

I'm sure that some other CT folk can post some interesting clips. Here is one that I recently posted on CT.


I'll warm up my camera tonight & post some more.

Very best regards,
collect89