Standing liberty quarter type 2 - Page 5

cncman · 03-19-2009, 01:04 AM

It does matter if it is a dealer that has a reputation to protect, it is also a good sign if he bought it in the states as it is not a hard to get coin and readily available. If it just "turned up" somewhere it would be suspicious, so far I see nothing that would suggest to me it is fake, the weight is right, it looks good, the shield being weak is normal, Always hard to tell without it in hand, but if you are happy with the coin it should be OK to get it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKMAL

It's from a reliable dealer who brought it from USA (he visited to Florida weeks ago) and does not sell fake. And usually brought numismatic item from European too. It's many fake in Hong Kong this one i would always avoid. Reliable dealers in HK isn't that many, only 3 to 4 i know so far. But whether it's from realiable dealer or not, is not helpful for this thread anyway, the most important is the coin itself.

HKMAL · 03-19-2009, 01:50 AM

Yes for me it looks genuine but since Ruben has pointed out something then I open a new thread here for discussion and sharing. The dealer is one of the Krause numismatist, with high reputation almost 25 years.

cncman · 03-19-2009, 01:57 AM

If that something was the weakness in the shield I would say there is no problem, that is typical for that date, sounds like you have a good dealer, and should have little to worry about. Oh and technically that is a type 3 not type 2, but most people just use t1 and 2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKMAL

Yes for me it looks genuine but since Ruben has pointed out something then I open a new thread here for discussion and sharing. The dealer is one of the Krause numismatist, with high reputation almost 25 years.

HKMAL · 03-19-2009, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cncman

If that something was the weakness in the shield I would say there is no problem, that is typical for that date, sounds like you have a good dealer, and should have little to worry about. Oh and technically that is a type 3 not type 2, but most people just use t1 and 2.

Thanks. How to differentiate between type 2 and 3?

cncman · 03-19-2009, 09:49 AM

type 3 they recessed the step where the date is so that you don't get the date wearing too early like the earlier date were prone to do, 1925 was the first year for that. But most people refer to anything other than the type1 as a type 2 so if you say type 3 to anyone that isn't a SLQ nut they will probably look at you funny. Good luck, enjoy the coin.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKMAL

Thanks. How to differentiate between type 2 and 3?

rld14 · 03-19-2009, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cncman

type 3 they recessed the step where the date is so that you don't get the date wearing too early like the earlier date were prone to do, 1925 was the first year for that. But most people refer to anything other than the type1 as a type 2 so if you say type 3 to anyone that isn't a SLQ nut they will probably look at you funny. Good luck, enjoy the coin.

If you want to get really technical then there's more than 3 different types of SLQs.

1) 1916. The 1916 uses a unique obverse die, but the same reverse die as the 1917 Type 1.

2) 1917 Type 1

3) 1917-1924 Type 2. However the 1924s have a different font for the date.

4) 1925-1930 Type 2 design, the date was recessed to protect it from premature wear, this is why, in circulated condition, the 25+ coins are usually the ones you'll see being sold for common coin money (1927-S and 1927-D excepted)

I think that your coin, based on the pics, is an AU55 myself.

Welcome to Coin Talk! Register Now, it's easy and FREE!