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07-15-2008, 06:44 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | IMP RABBITICVS
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: T-Town Beat Down, Michigan
Posts: 3,441
My Mood: | type set question
Just so no one gets scared, I am not going all over the place again...This type set is actually for my freind. He wants to get started and decided to do this set.
So our question...
if you do a 20th Century type set, what years do you use?
Example: this set would need a morgan, obviously one from 1900-1921, but does it matter which year or is there a certain one you should used?
stainless
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07-15-2008, 06:50 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Numismatist
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,474
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Year does not matter - at least if I was doing one. Most people pick a common date year so they can get the best possible example for their money.
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07-15-2008, 06:53 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 56
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I'm a bullion horder breaking into the numismatic scene, so I have to ask....
What's a type set?
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07-15-2008, 06:56 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | What Goes Around Comes A
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,563
My Mood: |
I go buy if the coins like Barbers were minted 1892 to 1915 , I'll look for the best coin I can find in my budget , doesn't matter if it's a '92 or '15 , because the type was minted in the 20th century , you might get people who disagree , but it's your set so you make the rules .
rzage
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07-15-2008, 06:58 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | What Goes Around Comes A
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,563
My Mood: |
Type set is 1 coin of every different design minted . so instead of getting every date & MM of one type like Mercury dimes you get 1 mercury dime 1 Morgan dollar 1 Standing quarter and so on .
rzage
Last edited by rzage; 07-15-2008 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: spelling
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07-15-2008, 07:03 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 56
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Ah, makes sense.
Thanks for the info.
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07-15-2008, 09:13 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Coin Collector
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 1,276
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I think type sets are going to be come a more popular way of collecting. I think a lot of newer collectors are not enamored with the idea of collecting dozens and dozens of coins that look the same except for a small mint mark change and date change. Witness new albums coming out for Year Sets of Prez dollars and Morgans.
And as a couple of people have said, you can concentrate on getting really nice examples of each type.
The other cool thing is a type set can be anything you want it to be - 20th Centrury, coins with birds, holed coins, MS coins that Clembo missed while sorting at the coin shop, etc. The sky is the limit
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07-16-2008, 01:45 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 335
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Personally I like the idea of getting the first or last date of the design. Last is usually a lot more affordable. If I was building a 20th century type set I'd probably get the last year for all the older coins, first year for the designs still in circ.
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07-16-2008, 06:09 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: near Augusta, GA
Posts: 114
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In my case, it all depends on how obsessive I want to be. For example, I did a 20th Cent type set. I had to have the Barber coins from 1901 to the end of their coinage. If I had had, say an 1892, it would not have been a 20th Century coin. Quirky?, you bet.
Now that I am working on a 19th Century type set, I am going to have to duplicate the Barber coins to include the 1892 to 1900 years. Same for the Indian Head Cent and Liberty nickel and Morgan dollar.
What does this say about me? Draw your own conclusions, just keep it clean, lol.
Speaking of types, does anyone else consider the 1921 Morgan to be a separate type from the other Morgans? There are noticeable design differences. Also, is the 1921 Peace a separate type from the remainder of the Peace dollars?
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07-16-2008, 11:39 AM
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#10 (permalink)
| | 50 Years and Still At It
Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,931
My Mood: |
A couple ideas:
1. Find the most common coin and buy the best you can afford. For a lot of issues (like Jeffersons) you can easily get MS-65 or -66, and MS-67 may be within the budget.
For something like the Morgans, that probably means a 1921 and maybe only a MS-63 or -64.
2. Some people like to get the first or last year of a particular issue. For Indian Head nickels that could be a 1938-D (last year of issue). The 1913's would be a bit pricy in the MS grades.
__________________ ANA Member APS Member ARA Member Be yourself ... everyone else is already taken. |
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07-16-2008, 12:33 PM
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#11 (permalink)
| | Collector
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: New York
Posts: 120
My Mood: |
The type set book I have is just labeled "type" (no century), it covers 19th & 20th century U.S. coins. I think it's a Dansco 7070 and it has spaces, for instance, for the first year type buffalo and then another space for the other type buffalo. Same for the SLQs, IHC's and shield nickels. It also has holes for different year large cents, half cents, bust types and seated Liberty coinage. Also included in this one are modern coins & commems. The hardest part for me is to finish is the Seated and earlier bust types and that elusive trade dollar, everything else is done. One day I'll include a gold type page or two.
I bought a blank page Dansco for World bullion too, it holds Pandas, Unicorns, Maple Leafs, Libertads and some from Australia such as Koala and Kookaburra. They look nice in one book. That makes two completely different type set books for me.
IMHO, I think a type set could made up of whatever you want it to be. I just wanted nice examples of each coin so I usually buy the best possible in common dates. The first year types are a bit more expensive but I filled those holes too except for the 21 Peace dollar.
Last edited by becky62; 07-16-2008 at 12:35 PM.
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