1939-D T1 1939-D T11 Differences ?

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Metalman, Sep 23, 2004.

  1. Metalman

    Metalman New Member

    What are the distinguishing differences ? How do I know which one I have ?

    Ive started reading this forum and have developed some interest in Nickles , but I know very little about them, I have quite a few but never really paid them no mind. Until I looked at the posts featuring the toned war nickles ,they are spectacular,

    I started looking thru my coins and found that I had about a dozen that are beautifully toned like the ones I looked at,I guess that I had bought them sometime ago and tucked them away.

    Thank You for the info!!!

    Rick
     
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  3. jody526

    jody526 New Member

    Metalman,

    This is a page from Jason Taylor's website, that should enable you to tell the difference...

    LINK
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman New Member

    Thank You very much,, perfect info for my question.
     
  5. duffyc8778

    duffyc8778 New Member

    Hi Metalman,

    I think you'll find Jason's entire website to be a tremendous resource for all sorts of "nickel knowledge" It's definately broadened and deepend my collecting knowledge and enjoyment!!

    As an interesting aside, It occurs to me that all US 5 cent pieces' have a second reverse variety in the first or second year of issue:

    Shield Nickel - With Rays and Without
    Liberty Nickel - With Cents and Without
    Buffalo Nickel - On Mound and Flat grass
    Jefferson Nickel - Wavy Steps / Defined Steps (probably the least significant variety, but a recognized one at that)

    A strange but interesting COINcidence, huh?

    -Chris Duffy
     
  6. dm1299

    dm1299 New Member


    Check out Jason Taylor's web site on Jefferson Nickels. It's great. See this URL: http://varietynickels.com/diechanges.htm. It show each die change. The first two pictures are the reverse of 1940 and the revers of 1939. You may want to click on the pictures to enlarge. The reverse of 40 are the Type II steps. The reverse of 1938 are the type I steps. In 1939, there were nickels struck from with either reverse. 1939- Type II is more common. 1939-D is about 50/50 and 1939-S, Type I is more common. Basically, Type I steps are wavy and less distinct. Type II steps are straight and more chiseled.

    In the case of proofs, there is a rare 1939 proof with reverse of 1940 and a rare 1940 proof with reverse of 1938.

    Hope this helps.

    Dan Marion
     
  7. jody526

    jody526 New Member

  8. Metalman

    Metalman New Member

    Thank You all for the Info, I have checked the site out and bookmarked it,

    interesting how I never really looked at my nickles until I looked at the photos posted of the toned ones posted here, I think Ive found another interest,,

    when I look in my price guides at full step varieties they seem to run through all years with some very modern coins having a fairly good premium attached ,,, is this something that is real ? I can understand the older ones bearing such prices but Modern coins ?

    or is that something that is happening due to the design change ?

    Thanks again
    Rick
     
  9. dm1299

    dm1299 New Member

    Many of the later dates are very difficult if not impossible to find in full step. To qualify for full step, you must have five steps up to 1988 and six steps after that with no nicks. The 1969D is impossible in full step. Many from the 1980s are tough including those from 1982 and 1983. I still don't have a 1983 full stepper. The 1967 business strike is very difficult. One of the worst struck coins in the series in my opinion. Consult http://varietynickels.com/priceguide.htm The prices are indicative of rarity. The 1976 is also very tough.
     
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