I've got my first coin show coming up. Wondering if anyone could give me any advice on purchasing Barbers at the show. I've read a decent amount material on the subject, but the article that really hit home for me outlines the need for creating a plan for collecting and trying to focus on AU quality coins. Perhaps, I'll try to focus on easier to attain barbers at AU quality... like an 1894-S. I don't know. I still don't have an eye for grading as I only started collecting about 2 months ago. I guess I'm looking for a mentor.
There are at least a few of us with extensive experience in Barber coinage. I still have pretty thorough notes on Barber half dollars on my website and have written articles published in Coin World and Coin Values regarding Barber coinage. I have a few questions for you. Why focus on AU Barber coinage? Will you be buying raw, slabbed or both? Do you want original surfaces or dipped coins? Answers to these questions will help.
I want to focus on AU+ because I read that all Barbers are becoming harder and harder to find in that state. I read that here.. http://www.greysheet.com/cdn/mnth_art.asp I'll be in the market for either slabbed or raw, whatever catches my eye. But, I'm well aware that as a newbie collector I could get burned buying raw coins. I do know I want original surfaces, if possible.
No offense, but I don't fully embrace your reasoning for collecting Barber quarters (presumably) in AU. Reading an article in the Greysheet gives the point of view of one person who may or may not have the same aesthetic sensibilities, financial wherewithall and/or discipline that anyone else possesses. Barber coinage is tough as all get out in mid-grades or higher and with original surfaces. The quarters in AU will cost perhaps $75K in today's dollars and that money will be concentrated mighty hard on the 1901-S. However, there are a decent number of the quarters that will be harder to find than the 1901-S in AU. I'll give you some advice that you are free to ignore- 1) Don't go to a show looking for a specific date such as the 1894-S you mentioned previously. 2) Look at hundreds upon hundreds of Barber coins from all denominations and in all grade ranges to see what might look like the grade range you prefer. 3) Realize how much a set, if you want to build a set, will cost before diving into the buying pool. 4) Attempt to figure out an exit strategy early on in the event that you want or need to sell your coins. 5) Learn about manipulation of surfaces. Below are a pair of circulated coins and a pair of mint state coins. The 1893-S Barber half dollar is the King of regular issue Barber half dollars; the 1897-S Barber quarter is perhaps the most overlooked and underappreciated mid-grade Barber quarter in the series; and the two mint state coins shared are just to show what a high end piece might look like.
One thing you can do to help yourself greatly is to read through the David Lawrence (David Feigenbaum) books on Barber coinage. They are a bit dated at this point since he wrote them in the early to mid-1990s, but they contain a wealth of information. I have each as a hardbound or softbound book and they can get expensive if you find them as hardbound books. There will be no new editions written by David as he died of ALS in 1999 or thereabouts. http://blog.davidlawrence.com/index.php/reference-books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-dimes/ http://blog.davidlawrence.com/index.php/reference-books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-quarters/ http://blog.davidlawrence.com/index.php/reference-books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-halves/
Haha Haha, I laughed too. No, they were great. I appreciate you linking the readings. They were some of the best sources I've read and the examples were really helpful. I printed some of the examples and pdf'd them onto a single sheet to take with me peek at when away from the tables. Thanks, Tom!
I will second the advice to look at a lot of coins and take your time. Remember that nice coins will still be available in the future
Hello Drjones266, There is very good advice in this thread regarding Barber coins. I would like to reiterate that you should become familiar with altered surfaces & become familiar with various types of cleaning & whizzing on Barber coins. Perhaps you would be interested in learning the nuances of Barber grading at one of the ANA's grading courses. Also, if you don't like something about a coin, then don't buy it. The problem will not get better over time & you will probably dislike the coin every time you look at it.
If its your first show, don't be afraid to ask questions, take your time and look around. Most important is have fun.
So, I ended up picking these up. The capped bust really caught my eye. It's funny... I went in with a plan and as soon as I was surrounded by all the beautiful coins, my plan went to s**t.
I like the 1830 CBH very much. The 1903-O Barber quarter does not have original surfaces. The 1858 Seated Liberty quarter shows no reverse, but the scratch across the date is a killer; it has also been lightened a bit, in my opinion.
Dang. Live and learn. The two quarters came from one dealer and the CBH came from another. I'll post the reverse below. Thanks, Tom!
Lots of great advice here, but I would like to focus on number 2 just a bit more. Look at every single barber coin you can. Not just for what look you are after, but to build your knowledge of grading and knowledge of surfaces. Heck I have looked at 1000's in hand and online, but I still like to have the opinions of others like TomB sometimes. Better and key dates in the Barber series can cost big money in mid-grades and it's best to be armed with as much knowledge as possible or you will have little to show for it.
Story of my life. I still need to get a MS 1954-S Lincoln. Just don't bother to find an example even though I'd be spending a max of 25 cents
