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Old 05-31-2004, 08:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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To slab or not to slab.

Coin certification is a subject that has strong advocates for and against.

Most agree on the four top services:

NGC
PCGS
ANACS
IGC

To often collectors use the grading services as a crutch. Grading, while an art form, can be learned by anyone willing to put forth the effort.

So when should you slab your raw coin?

Key dates in any series, and coins that are often targets of counterfeiters.

Remember, buy the coin, never the holder.

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Old 12-01-2004, 01:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would slab any early proof, especially any high-end proofs including modern stuff. Slabs help protect the coin and either stop or slow down the oxidation/toning process that actually changes the metal surfaces. The top tier services also help establish a pretty good idea of what the coin grade is, as well as authenticate the coin.
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I should have read this before posting my question. Though I am still undecided.
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know if y'all will agree with me, but I think it might be useful to use a lower cost grading services (like ANACS) for coins that you get at a good price and then later they go up--you might want to slab them to keep them from getting damaged.

I got a 1892-P Barber Half in F-12 for $2.00. To me that would be a good one to slab just because it's worth more then what I paid and so it won't be damaged.

One more thing....what about using grading services to help learn how to grade the MS grades??

I'm doing a set of proof franklins 1950-1963 all in PF-66. Since I'm not sure of myself when grading proofs I will only buy the coins slabbed.
(so far I have almost a complete set from 1956-1963...so have cameo and are higher grade then PF-66)

Just some thoughts....

Speedy
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm not that great a fan of slabbing, although my very small collection of gold is housed exclusively in PCGS plastic, mainly because I lack GDJMSP's eye and grading skills.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
0what about using grading services to help learn how to grade the MS grades?
If you do, just be sure to stick exclusively with the "big four" - and preferably only one of them - to get a better basis for identifying the tiny differences in appearance between adjacent grades.

Using one of the bottom-feeder TPGs would lead you to believe that so long as it's round and metal, it's MS/PR70.
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Howdy Speedy - haven't seen ya around much lately.

Yes I think it is a good idea to have more valuable coins slabbed. It offers excellent protection and will help you learn. It also makes it much easier to sell your coins should the need ever arise.

I'm sure you already know - as Satootoko and many others have said - only use the top 4. And here I'm going to make a comment that most do not make. Use all 4 of the top 4. This will be very helpful, especially to those who are working on their grading skills. By using only 1 company - you become too accustomed to grading by their standards. And since they all have different standards - you do yourself a disservice by doing this.

Getting used to how the different grading companies grade different coins goes a long way in teaching you to understand not only the grading process used by each company but it also helps you have a more rounded understanding of the grading process itself. And pretty soon you find yourself questioning the grades assigned by the companies because you have developed your own standards - a composite standard if you will. Then you will realize that your composite standard allows you to pick the best of the best

This is when collecting really becomes fun - at least for me
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Old 12-18-2004, 12:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDJMSP
Use all 4 of the top 4. This will be very helpful, especially to those who are working on their grading skills. By using only 1 company - you become too accustomed to grading by their standards. And since they all have different standards - you do yourself a disservice by doing this.
As Rosanne Rosanadana used to say "Never mind" my advice to use only one of the Big 4 for self-training. Doug has convinced me that four heads are better than one!
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Old 12-18-2004, 01:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satootoko

Using one of the bottom-feeder TPGs would lead you to believe that so long as it's round and metal, it's MS/PR70.
Now thats FUNNY, but true
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Old 12-18-2004, 01:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Using one of the bottom-feeder TPGs would lead you to believe that so long as it's round and metal, it's MS/PR70
Don't I know it! I got some off brand slabs the other day just to see how they worked and man are they cheap...I took apart one with my DULL pocket knife.

GDJMSP
Well I've been here and there...I'm here at least once a day sometimes more--I just don't comment a lot unless I have a question or just to add my 2 cents worth.

I used to not like slabs just because I couldn't hold the coin like I can when it's raw but I've changed....when I see coins that are damaged I like slabs even better

In the last year I've gotten quite a few slabs from all 4 companies.

One question...
Quote:
Yes I think it is a good idea to have more valuable coins slabbed
What would you say are "valuable" coins worth over $100 or BU coins that are going up in value?

Speedy
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Old 12-18-2004, 04:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy

One question... What would you say are "valuable" coins worth over $100 or BU coins that are going up in value?

Speedy

Well it kind of depends for you have to weigh the cost of slabbing against the value of the coin. It makes little sense to spend $12 - $30 to slab a coin that is only worth $25 or less. The point at which value makes the cost worthwhile can only be determined by the idividual.

Persoanlly, as you already know Speedy but others may not, I have never submitted a coin for slabbing in my entire life. That's because I generally buy them already slabbed. Kinda solves the problem for me
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ah....that is what I needed to know

Quote:
I have never submitted a coin for slabbing in my entire life.
I never have either but might someday.

I think I'd only send in coins to have slabbed if they were...

CC Morgans
Key Dates or Simi Keys
Red Cents
Older Proof Coins

Thanks again for your help.

Speedy
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
GDJMSP

Ah....that is what I needed to know



I never have either but might someday.

I think I'd only send in coins to have slabbed if they were...

CC Morgans
Key Dates or Simi Keys
Red Cents
Older Proof Coins

Thanks again for your help.

Speedy
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Old 12-21-2004, 04:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Slabbing to me offers a number of benefits.

{I only slab with PCGS, NGC, ICG and ANACS...ONLY!}

1.) Trust! If I have to sell something quickly, I can pretty much sell a slabbed MS66 coin much faster and with higher prices obtained than me stating it is MS66. A coin slabbed by the top four offers more peace of mind in both buying and selling. Of course I try to buy the coin, not the slab IF I can see and hold it...but when you can't, who would you trust? Slabbed or Raw? At least my benefactors will have the ability to dispose of my collection for the coins that are slabbed versus ones in 2x2's and/or folders.

2.) Protection! Sonically sealed and Intercept Shields (ICG) offer the best in storing and long-term protection. Afterall, if I want early Lincoln Reds to stay red (all things being equal), what would you use? Sonically sealed, air-tight with the Intercept Shield or something else?

3.) Display! Neatly labeled and easy for looking, slabs offer that as well.
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Old 12-21-2004, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I agree with you--

One reason I will only buy my proof franklins slabbed, is because how do I know that after I buy it the seller won't put his big fingers on it and kill the value...I think that as long as it's slabbed it's protected.

A buddy and myself are taking about sending some coins to ANACS so I guess I'll try them first.

I like all of the slabs PCGS NGC ANACS ICG PCI and if I could get it at the right price I might even buy an off name brand slab.

One thing I don't like about PCGS and ICG and PCI is that you have to send the coins through a dealer---ANACS has it so anybody can send it and NGC has it so that ANA members can.

And one more thing PCGS NGC PCI and (I think ICG) charge about $20..why?? Just because they are a big name or what??

ANACS charges about $10 and to me that is more reasonable then $20 and from what I've seen they seem to grade the same.

It's kind of like the mint....why do they charge more then face?? I guess we'll never know.

Thanks for your input.

Speedy


BTW
Has anybody ever gotten a ANACS body bag????
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Old 12-21-2004, 06:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
One thing I don't like about PCGS and ICG and PCI is that you have to send the coins through a dealer---ANACS has it so anybody can send it and NGC has it so that ANA members can.
I joined PCGS as a "silver member" and was able to send coins in. Here's how:

http://www.pcgs.com/join/index.chtml

ICG doesn't require a "hard" membership either. Just sign up and you will get a collector ID number.

I haven't sent coins to NGC lately, so maybe some of the rules have changed.

Also, I sent to Anacs under economy service and I finally got my coins back after 95 days after they received it! VERY SLOW with little if no customer service. An email or note would have been nice stating they were in receipt of my coins.

PCI in the old holders hold more wait than the recent grades...don;t know why, but I usually will look at then with more caution than the others.
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