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<p>[QUOTE="tmoneyeagles, post: 4442439, member: 17557"]Welcome to CoinTalk.</p><p><br /></p><p>Your photos aren't bad, but they are too overexposed to be able to adequately grade the coin. I cannot make out where contact marks are, nor if the surfaces themselves are original (i.e. not cleaned, though I'm learning towards them being original). Mercury Dimes are hard to photograph in general, but if you are using the flash on your camera (which it kind of looks like in the first photograph), stop that. </p><p><br /></p><p>Proper lighting in numismatic photography is usually accomplished by providing overhead lighting to the coin by placing two lamps at the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position.</p><p><br /></p><p>For the time being, the most I can do is agree with your "MS60 or better" assessment.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the meantime, this may prove useful to you: <a href="https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Mercury/Grades" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Mercury/Grades" rel="nofollow">https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Mercury/Grades</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="tmoneyeagles, post: 4442439, member: 17557"]Welcome to CoinTalk. Your photos aren't bad, but they are too overexposed to be able to adequately grade the coin. I cannot make out where contact marks are, nor if the surfaces themselves are original (i.e. not cleaned, though I'm learning towards them being original). Mercury Dimes are hard to photograph in general, but if you are using the flash on your camera (which it kind of looks like in the first photograph), stop that. Proper lighting in numismatic photography is usually accomplished by providing overhead lighting to the coin by placing two lamps at the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position. For the time being, the most I can do is agree with your "MS60 or better" assessment. In the meantime, this may prove useful to you: [URL]https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Mercury/Grades[/URL][/QUOTE]
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